Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Transmission (Whirlpool Part # 6-2097750)

Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today, we’re going to show you how to change
the transmission on your washer and it’s a really easy job. All we’re going to need is a quarter inch
nut driver, a number two Phillips screwdriver, and a small flat blade screwdriver, and either
a number 20 Torx bit or a 1/8 Allen key bit. You will need a pair of slip-joint pliers,
a 3/8 socket with an extension on a ratchet, a half inch socket and ratchet, and a half
inch wrench. If you can find a spanner wrench and a large
hammer, you’ll be all set. Let me show you how we do it.Now, before we
begin this repair, the first thing we’re going to need to do is pull the washer far enough
forward that we’ll be able to tilt it back. We’ll need to disconnect the inlet water supply,
disconnect the drain hose, and the power, and then, we’ll also want to put something
on the floor to protect the floor as well. Now, our next step will be to remove the agitator. Using a quarter inch nut driver we’ll locate
the retaining screw on the side of the barrel of the agitator and we’ll just loosen that
screw a few turns.Then, you should be able to pull the agitator straight up and off of
the agitator shaft and we’ll set that aside. Next, we’ll remove the two screws that secure
the front panel and if you wish, you can tilt the washer back if you have a spot where you
can rest it up against and remove those two screws. Then, just lift away at the bottom of the
front panel, tilt it, and let it drop down to release the two spring clips at the top
and then set that aside.Next, we can remove two 3/8 bolts that secure the main top to
the cabinet. Using your ratchet and socket, just remove
those bolts. Once we’ve removed both those bolts, well
carefully lower the washer into an upright position. Now, if your model has a bleach dispenser
on it, we’ll next need to disconnect that bleach hose and then, we can raise the main
top and the lid and support that lid as we raise the main top. It should stay in an upright position and
then you can open the lid.Now, our next step will be to remove the tub cover. Models that use a plastic tub cover, it’s
just held in place with large plastic tabs that run around the perimeter. Now, models that use a metal tub cover, there
will be a band clamp that secures the tub cover to the outer tub and there will also
be two bolts that secure that clamp in diagonal corners. Simply loosen the one at the front as much
as possible and then, pry that clamp off. Carefully lift the tub cover off and set it
aside.Next, we’re going to remove the tub nut so that we can lift the inner basket out. Now, you will need a spanner wrench and a
large hammer to remove that tub nut. It is a left-hand thread so we’re going to
turn it clockwise to loosen it. Set the spanner wrench down on top of the
tub nut, make sure we place that wrench firmly into that tub nut. Then, using our hammer, give it a sharp rap.If
you find that it’s not moving or if the hold mounting stem turns with that nut, we’ll stop
and just chisel it off at that point. Using a nice sharp chisel, just go right into
the edge of that and do the same thing on the opposite side. Once we split that, just knock the two pieces
aside and remove the collar and then, we’re ready to lift the tub out. You may need some assistance to lift that
because it is fairly heavy.Now, with the inner tub removed, we now have access to the mounting
stem and there is a set screw that secures that to the top part of the transmission housing. The older models will use an 8 inch Allen
hex key, and newer models will have a number 20 Torx. Determine which bit will fit that set screw
and remove it and then we’ll take our spanner wrench again set that down into that mounting
stem and again, it is a left-hand thread, so we’re going to turn clockwise to loosen
it.Once we’ve loosened it, we’ll just turn that all the way off the top of the transmission
and then you can lift it away and discard it. Again, if it refuses to come off, you will
need to take a chisel and cut down through two sides of it to split. Then, next, we’re going to remove the boot
seal that sits around the tub bearing. We’ll just get a good firm grip on that and
twist it and then pull it straight off. Now, we’re ready to remove the bolts for the
outer tub.Next, we’ll need to remove the bolts that secure the outer tub through to the support
legs. Now, they’re half inch bolts. There is a rubber washer under the head of
that bolt. We’re going to try not to turn the bolt itself. We’ll just turn the nut, so that would be
the nut, a lock washer, a large rectangular flat washer. It will normally have an X stamped on it. If you look at the edge of that flat washer,
you’ll see that there’s a bit of a curvature that will match the curvature of the tub. The X portion should always face out.Normally,
there will be two different sizes of these bolts. The bolt at the front will be a little bit
shorter than the two at the rear. There’s also a fiber washer between the outer
tub and the support leg. Normally, that will stick to that outer tub,
but if it doesn’t, make sure that we retrieve it for use when reassembling. Just continue to remove all three bolts. Now, once we’ve removed all three bolts, our
next step will be to remove the tub to pump hose. Using a 5/16 nut-driver, just loosen that
clamp and slide the clamp down on the hose and then twist the hose until it breaks free
of the tub, release it.Then, next, just lift up on that outer tub. Pull it completely off of the transmission,
then just rest it like that so that we can next remove the clamp that secures the air
dome tube to the side of the tub. Using a pair of slip-joint pliers, we’re simply
going to compress that clamp, slide that up the air dome tube and the game will just twist
that tube and release it. We can now set that odor tub aside.Now, next,
we’ll put that main top back down and we’ll secure it with one of the 3/8 bolts. Then, next, we’re going to tilt that washer
back make sure it’s firmly supported. Then, next we’re going to remove this rubber
cap over the center of that main drive pulley, and below that, you’ll see a small drive lug
with a Philips screw in the middle of it. We’re just going to remove the screw. Now there is a countersunk washer that is
attached to that screw.Next, we’re just going to rock that drive lug back and forth until
we release it. If it doesn’t come off easy, just take a small
flat blade and put it under one edge and just pry it off gently. The drive lug is splined to the bottom of
that transmission shaft. You just set that aside for now and we can
roll the belt off of the pump and the drive pulley, set those aside and then, we can rotate
that main drive pulley counterclockwise from the bottom until it rolls off of the shaft
and we’ll set that aside.Next, we can carefully stand the washer back up again and you can
remove that 3/8 bolt that secures the main top. Then, carefully lift the top up while supporting
the lid, and open the lid. Now that we’ve removed the drive lug in the
main drive pulley, we should be able to just lift that transmission out of the damper base. Just pull straight up on it and remove it. Now before we install the new one, we’ll want
to remove this slinger from the bottom of the old transmission and transfer it onto
the new one.To remove that water slinger we’re just going to get a good grip on that push
it down over the lip on that shaft and slide it completely off. Then, we’ll just do the reverse to mount it
on the new transmission, and once it’s up over that collar, you have it in the right
position. Now, before we proceed, we should also look
at the sleeve for that tub bearing and see what kind of condition that’s in.If it’s worn
like this one is chances are the tub bearing that’s in the outer tub is in bad shape as
well and you should probably replace that while we have the machine apart. A new tub bearing will come with a new sleeve
and a bearing. Now, if the old top bearing was in good shape,
you should be able to slide that sleeve off of the old transmission just by pulling up
on it, and if it won’t come off you would need to replace it anyways.Now, we’ll take
note on that new transmission that on the top portion of it, there are some threads
that are cut away and that’s done for a reason, so that when we actually install our new mounting
stem where the set screw will go through, we’ll be in that area where there are no threads. We also want to take caution that when we
tighten that mounting stem down, that we don’t have that set screw lined up where there is
a relief groove cut into the top portion of that housing.Just take note of that one you
actually put that mounting stem on there that the screw will sit somewhere else other than
in that groove. We’re now ready to put the new transmission
in. Just make sure that there’s no grit or dirt
on that spline on the bottom and then, just lower it in through the center of the damper. You may need to rotate it enough to line the
splines up. Then, next, we’ll get the sleeve.Next, we’ll
install the sleeve for the tub bearing on top of the transmission, and then we’ll prepare
the outer tub to put in. Now, before we install the tub, we want to
inspect that center portion of the odor tub where the boot seal is going to sit. It is just a friction fit. We want to make sure we have a nice clean
surface all the way around. If there’s any crud here, we’ll just get rid
of that first and clean that area up.Then, once we’ve got that nice and clean and dry,
a good surface for that boot seal to sit on, we can go ahead and install that. Now, before we install that boot, we’ll want
to just lubricate the inner lip of that with a little bit of moisture as well as the outer
lip of that tub and then just carefully twist that on there being very cautious that we
don’t put any pressure on the top portion of the seal because that’s a carbon ring and
it will fracture if you put any twist on it.Grasp it down well, rotate it back and forth until
it seats firmly on the bottom of that tub and then, you should be able to easily push
that in and out to clear the tub bearing. Now, we’re ready to put the tub back in. We’ll start by just supporting that tub on
the cabinet and we’ll reconnect our air dome tube. It needs to be positioned so that it is straight
up and down on the side of that tub. Just rotate the clamp into position and then
center the tub over the transmission and now we can reinstall the bolts.Now, as mentioned
there will be two long bolts and one that’s a little bit shorter and the shorter one will
go on the front. We’ll push the bolt through from the inside
first making sure that the fiber washer is in between the tub and the support and we’re
going to lay that rectangular washer with the cross facing out. Then, a lock washer and then the nut. Now, using a wrench will keep the bolt from
turning on the inside so that it doesn’t distort the rubber gasket on it and just tighten that
a bit first till we get the rear bolts in position.Just continue to do that with the
two rear legs. Again, making sure that the fiber washer is
still in position. Now once we have all three bolts started,
start tightening them up. Again, make sure we don’t allow the head of
that bolt to turn so that it doesn’t twist the rubber gasket. Now, next, we’ll reconnect the tub to pump
hose. Make sure it’s fully inserted on to the nipple
from the tub and position the clamp and tighten it.Before we install the new mounting stem,
well first remove the set screw from the side of it and just make sure that the inner surface
of that is clean and that the Teflon ring is in place. Slide it down over the agitator shaft and
then, tighten it counterclockwise. Then, we’ll use our spanner wrench to tighten
it. Give it a couple of taps and then we’ll reinstall
that set screw. We suggest that you tighten that set screw
really tight at first, then just back it off a couple of turns and then just tighten it
snugly.Now, we can put the inner tube back in. Just gently lower that inner tub on top of
the mounting stem. Just roll it around a bit until it centers. Let’s set the collar in place and the tub
nut. Again, it’s a left-hand thread, so we will
turn it counterclockwise to tighten it. We want to make sure that this knot is tight,
so a couple of pretty good raps. Next, we’ll put the tub cover back on. If your model uses the plastic tub cover we’ll
locate this out-of-balance tab in the right rear corner and then just line up the locking
tabs and then squeeze the tub cover to the outer tub until they latch in place.We can
now put the main top back down and then, line up the holes for the 3/8 bolts in each corner. We suggest that you start both of those bolts
before you tighten either one of them just to make sure that they line up properly. You may have to push the main top back to
line up those holes. If your model has a bleach dispenser, remember
to reconnect that bleach hose securely, check both the top and in the bottom. We’re now ready to put the drive pulley on.We’ll
start by tilting the washer back, make sure it’s firmly supported and if you wish, you
can lay it directly on its back. We’ll then pull the little protective cover
off of the bottom shaft and then, take the drive pulley with the bearing intact. In case that bearing has fallen off, you need
to make sure that it is put on in the proper position. It will fit both ways. One way sits a little higher than the other,
so put it on the position where it sits the lowest.Then, rotate that pulley on to the
bottom shaft and then turning it clockwise, just give it a couple of good turns until
you see the transmission moving. Now, next, we’re going to install that drive
lug and if you look carefully at it, you’ll see that it has a rounded side and then a
slightly sharper flat side. The round side will face down. There’s also a little drive lug on one side
of it, but we want to position that drive lug. When facing the bottom of that pulley, you’ll
see there’s also a stop lug.Now, when installing the drive lug on that bottom shaft, we have
to line it up properly with the stop lug on the pulley. What we want to do is we’ll rotate that pulley
clockwise from the bottom until we start to meet the resistance of the brake and you just
see the transmission start to turn. Now, at that point, we will position that
drive lug so that the leading edge of it is about a quarter of an inch before the stop
lug on the pulley.Now, make sure that we have that drive lug pushed firmly on the shaft
and don’t use the screw to pull it on. The screw is just there to hold it in place. Secure with that single screw and put the
little grease cap on top of the assembly. It will snap onto that bottom pulley. Some models will have a rubber grease cap
and others will use a plastic material. We can now put the drive belts back on.The
thicker of the two belts will fit on the top portion of that motor drive pulley and then
around the large drive pulley on the transmission. Then, thinner of the two belts we’ll go across
the front from the motor to the pump and that belt is normally fairly loose. If you haven’t moved the pump it should be
fine, but check the condition of those belts before you put them on. If they show any signs of being glazed or
any burnt spots, they should be replaced with the manufacturer’s suggested belt.We’re now
ready to put the front panel on. We’ll take our front panel and we’re going
to hook these two spring clips under the main top. Tilt the panel out and keep an upward pressure
on it till it hooks in at the top and then just pivot it down into position. We’ll reinstall the two Phillips screws to
secure it. We’ll now put the agitator back in. Just lower that down onto the agitator shaft
and rotate it till the splines line up.Then, with our quarter-inch nut driver, we’ll locate
that retaining screw in the side of the agitator barrel, tighten it. There should be a little up and down movement
on that agitator which is normal. We’re now ready to reconnect the supplies
and the power and the drain hose and our repair is complete. I told you it was an easy job. Thanks for watching and good luck with your

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