Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Tub Bearing (GE Part # WH2X1198 & WH2X1197)
Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Tub Bearing (GE Part # WH2X1198 & WH2X1197)


Hi it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today we
are going to show you how to change the tub bearing on your washer. Now you are going
to need a few tools, so let me show you what you are going to need. We will start with
a ¼ inch nut driver, and a 5/16ths nut driver, you will need a putty knife, a pair of needle
nose pliers, and #20 torx bit, two flat blade screwdrivers, a 3/8th drive ratchet with a
½ inch socket, a 7/16th socket and a 3/8th socket, a ½ inch drive ratchet with a ¾
inch socket, a large hammer, a 1 11/16ths spanner wrench for the tub nut, and if you
have one a torque wrench with a ¾ inch socket and lastly a pair of protected gloves. Let
me show you how we do it, now before we begin this repair, we will start with disconnecting
the power to the appliance, and then we are going to pull the washer out far enough from
the wall, turn off the water supply and disconnect the hoses, and then our first step will be
to remove the control panel and it’s held in place with three ¼ inch hex head screws,
and they are located just over the top at the back and just slide it to the right and
lift it up out of the way. Now next with a pair of needle nose pliers
we can remove the pressure switch hose, just gently pull that off of the inlet to the pressure
switch, and we can just set that control panel loosely in place. Now next with a stiff putty
knife we are going to go in about three inches on either side on the gap between the top
and the front panel, and there is a spring clip there, that we need to depress and pull
the front panel forward, do the same on both sides, and just tilt the front panel forward,
and we will lift it off of the base frame, just a couple of slotted holes in the bottom
of that front panel that line up the two mounting tabs on the base frame and we will set the
front panel aside. Now next with our ¼ inch nut driver we will
remove two ¼ inch screws that secure the top to the cabinet and next we are going to
lift that top just a couple of inches and we will reach in with a pair of needle nose
pliers, we are going to depress the little locking tab that holds the wire harness connector
to the top frame and we can lift the lid, we are going to reach in, depress the little
tab on the front of the lid switch and we’ll push that up through the opening and just
drop it down through, and we can close the lid and we will remove the main top. Now next
we can lay that control panel back down and with a ¼ inch nut driver we are going to
remove two screws at the very back that hold the back panel in position, so carefully slide
that out, and we can let that hang over the back of the cabinet, and next we will remove
two ¼ inch screws on either end of that control panel mounting bracket that hold that in place
as well as the end caps, just lift up on the mounting bracket and lift out the end caps,
now you can lift both the control panel and the mounting bracket just tilt them out over
to the side, so that they are out of the way. Now next we are going to remove the screws
that secure the tub straps, with our 5/16ths hex head, remove all four of those and then
lift the tub straps off of the tub cover, and then locate the mounting tabs for the
tub cover and release those, just press down on the tub cover, while pulling out on the
tabs and lift the tub cover off of the tub, and set it aside. Next we are going to remove
the agitator and it’s held in place just by friction onto a agitator drive block, so we
will get our hands in underneath the base of the agitator, give it a sharp pull upwards,
now if it doesn’t come off that easily you may need to investigate a agitator remover,
there are different types available on the market that will sit in underneath the agitator,
and either operated by mechanical pressure or water pressure, remove the agitator and
put it aside, next we are going to remove a 7/16th bolt on top of the agitator drive
block, and lift the drive block off of the agitator shaft, and you will see that there
are tabs on the bottom of that drive block, that engage the bottom of the agitator and
hold it in place, and it’s splined in the center which sits over the agitator shaft. We will set that aside, next we will need
the spanner wrench to remove the tub nut, and it’s a left hand thread so we are going
to turn it clockwise to loosen it, then we will lift the tub completely out and we will
set that aside, and next we will remove the split ring that’s below the tub, just using
a flat blade screwdriver, we will just spread that just enough to allow it to slide off,
and also the washer that’s beneath it. We will set those aside, we will disconnect the
two outside harnesses to this motor and little locking tabs on the connectors, simply depress
those and pull the connector off, we will also disconnect the one to the load shifter,
there’s typically one internal one that will remain on that control board. With a pair
of needle nose pliers, we are going to depress the little clip that holds that wire harness
to the frame, and that allows to pull them out of their socket, got that one out and
then there is one tucked in behind the suspension spring on this side, it’s a little harder
to get at, once we’ve removed those, and also removed the ground screw, and then we’ll
route that harness away from the suspension rod and wind it, and then tuck it out of the
way. Now next we will remove that clamp from the tub to pump hose at the base of the tub,
now there’s probably going to be some water in that tub, so it helps to put an old towel
in there, to catch that and there are some sharp edges that you should put your protective
gloves on, and then loosen that clamp and then pull the hose off of the tub. We will also need to pull that air dome tube
off of the side of the tub, we will just slide that off and then remove the plastic clip
that secures it to the suspension rod, now to remove this suspension rods we are going
to lift up on the tub and with the handle of a hammer or boom handle, we are just going
to punch down on that, retaining piece that holds it into the base frame, and then just
pop it out and allow that motor to sit on the base frame and then we will do the same
with the two rear suspension rods. Now just let the tub sit on the base frame, and we
will put on our protective gloves and we are going to pull that tub out through the front
of the cabinet, so we will tilt it forward just carefully move the motor towards the
back, there should be enough flex in that outer tub, to allow us to tuck it in underneath
the top frame, and pull it completely clear of the cabinet and we are going to set it
completely upside down. Now to remove that belt, we are just going
to lift up on while we are rotating the large pulley, make sure you don’t pinch your fingers
in between the belt and the pulley, and set it aside. We are going to take the handle
of a hammer, just jam it against the base frame and then we will give that a nice sharp
wrap, remove the nut and just bump around the edge of that pulley gently, it is a cast
pulley, so we don’t want to damage it, and then lift it off. The 3/8th bolts through
the top, there is three of them, and there is one that comes up through from the bottom
in that area, we need remove all four of those, take note that there are some mounting locator
pins, next to a couple of these holes that will help us realign that properly, next we
need to remove the ½ inch bolts that are attached to the legs of the motor base frame
to the outer tub, and just depress that locking tab on that harness clip and let that hang
free, and take note on the motor end there should be a label on the front of the tub
as well to help us realign that. Now if you have a spare wire tie handy, it is easier
just to cut this off, but if you don’t have one, you can’t save this one by gently lifting
up the whole assembly, keeping in mind that there is a bit of weight to it, because we
have the motor on one end of it, and a concrete block on the other, you can probably pull
that up enough, and you can work it off the end of that hose, and that set that whole
assembly aside and we will lift the shifter assembly out of the bearing, just pull straight
up on it, and set that aside, so we will be replacing both of these bearings at the same
time, as a bearing washer, and then the steel bearing sits above that. So we will discard the plastic one, and we
will remove the #20 torx retaining screw and then with a couple of flat blade screwdrivers
we will go in underneath the edge of that, ears on that bearing, just pry up both at
the same time, cautious so that we don’t damage the tub and pull it completely out
of the hub, in the center of the tub, now make sure that surface is clean and not spared
up then we are going to line up those ears on that bearing with these slots on the outer
tub, make sure it’s straight, and press it into place, till it seats completely flush
and if need be, you can just tap that with the handle of your mallet, if it doesn’t
seat all the way by hand, do it gently because we don’t want to damage the tub, and we
will replace that #20 torx screw, and our new flat washer bearing, and then we can insert
the shifter assembly, just slide that through both bearings and then we are ready for the
motor frame assembly. Now if you’ve preserved the water retaining
strap we will need to work that over that hose as we are setting it in place and then
line up the bolt holes with the brackets on the tub while rotating the shifter assembly
into position, and again there are two tabs that come up through from the bottom, that
we need to line up, then we’ll put the four bolts in through the legs on the motor mount,
you start them all by hand first so that we have everything aligned before we tighten
anything and then tighten the bolts securely, next we will install the bolts for the shifter
assembly, and again we will just start them by hand first, we get everything aligned properly,
as well as the one remaining bolt that comes up through from the opposite end, and then
we can tighten those four bolts, and then we need to remember to insert that wire harness
tab into the base frame, and secure that. Next we will put the drive pulley on, now
if you have access to a torque wrench we are to tighten that bolt to about 35 pounds, next
we will install the drive belt, so we will loop it over the motor pulley first making
sure that it sits all the way down into the grooves, and we are going to start it on one
side of the driven pulley, till it comes up tight, and we will continue to rotate that
drive pulley clockwise, making sure that the belt doesn’t ride off of the motor pulley,
so keep it pinched up against the drive pulley and once we have it completely on a driven
pulley I want to make sure that we get that belt back down into the grooves, and rotate
it a few times to center it and now we are ready to put the assembly back into the washer. So we are going to tilt it over and while
supporting it, we will set it on its base and I want to make sure that we keep the motor
facing forward, just set it inside the washer and when re-installing those rods we are going
to lift the tub up again and then set it down on top of that holder, but we need to make
sure that the holder snaps completely into that frame, just give it a little push to
ensure that the locking tabs engage, and we will do the same to the rods on the rear.
Now with the tub suspended we will next connect the hose from the pump to the bottom of the
tub, make sure that we push that hose completely onto the outlet from the tub, and then we
can tighten the clamp, so make sure that we have the clamp positioned properly and then
tighten it securely. Now our next step will be to reroute that
wire harness around the suspension rod, complete turn around it, make sure it’s not binding,
and then we will reattach the wire harness retainers to the appropriate brackets, and
then reconnect wire harnesses to the motor, make sure the locking tabs are fully engaged
and we can put the ground screw back in place, and now we are ready to reinstall the tub.
First we will install the square centered flat washer and then the split ring with the
narrow end facing up, make sure that bottoms out and we can put the tub in place. Let’s
take that cone shaped tub nut and we will put the narrow end down and again it is a
left hand thread, so we are going to turn it counter clock wise to tighten it and just
wriggle that tub around as you are tightening it up by hand, and help center it, then with
our spanner wrench we will tighten it securely. Next we will reinstall the tub cover, making
sure that we line up the locating tabs on the tub, with the tabs on the tub cover, and
the bleach inlet should be on the left front corner, before we snap it into place, make
sure that we don’t have any of the tabs inside of the tub, and once it is lined up,
we just want to make sure we lock them all in place, press down firmly on the tub cover
and again verify that they’ve all snapped into place. Now next we want to reconnect
the air dome hose to the outlet on the side of the tub, just push that on till it bottoms
out, and we will use that plastic clip to secure it to the front suspension strap, next
we will install the tub dampening straps onto the tub cover, place them all in position,
and then install the four screws with the 5/16th heads. So our next step is to put the agitator drive
block back in position and it is splined on the inside to mate up with the agitator shaft,
so we will just slide that down over the shaft and then we will take that 7/16th bolt, secure
it, now the agitator has four splines inside that will mate up with that drive block, so
we line those up, splines actually line up with the fins on the base of the agitator,
so it makes it a little easier to install it, and once we have it positioned just give
it a sharp push to lock it in place, and now we are ready to put the control panel components
back on. So we will take the control panel and the
mounting bracket, pivot them back up into position, just lay the control panel across
the tub, we will feed that air dome tube through that oval opening, we will take the end panels,
you will note that there is a couple of hooks on the bottom then that will mate up with
some rectangular holes in the cabinet, set those into position and the mounting bracket
actually sits on top of those, so we will put those two screws in place and we will
lift the back panel up into position, we want to make sure that we locate these three tabs
underneath the control panel mounting bracket and then insert one screw on each side, and
as we tighten these screws we want to make sure that the back panel lines up with the
end caps, put it nice and straight, next we will put the control panel in position, and
we will reinstall the air dome tube onto the pressure switch, and make sure it is fully
inserted, then we are just going to tuck that panel up there out of the way, we are now
ready to put the main top on. Now when installing the main top we need to
keep in mind that there is a slot on the, both sides near the back that will engage
a hook on either side of the top frame, now we can raise the lid and we are going to put
the lid switch up through the opening, and then with the wires facing forward, we are
going to can clip that switch and snap it into place, we can lower the lid, then we
are going to reinstall that wire retaining clip into the hole in the top frame, we will
push the top panel back into position, we will next replace the two ¼ inch hex head
screws, and hold that top to the cabinet, now we will put the control panel onto the
main top, and note there are two tabs from the bottom of that control panel that will
fit down into appropriate slots, and then it will slide to the left and then we will
install the three screws that secure the back panel to the control panel, we are now ready
to put the front panel back on and we just need to make sure that the two slotted openings
on the bottom of the front panel, sit over top of the two mounting tabs that are attached
to the base frame, and as we tilt the front panel forward, we need to make sure that the
locating pins line up with the holes in the front panel, and then we will just snap that
in place and let the two spring clips at the top hold it there, we are now ready to reconnect
the power and our inlet fill hoses and our repair is complete. I told you it was an easy
job, thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.

34 thoughts on “Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Tub Bearing (GE Part # WH2X1198 & WH2X1197)”

  1. Gilitar says:

    Very informative video but I think I'll just buy a new machine. Too much work for an eight year old washer. I'll never buy anything GE again.

  2. Lisa says:

    The washer has to be completely disassembled for a simple par replacement? Obviously, they only want to sell new washing machines.

  3. Gerard Callaghan says:

    Wah!  No reflection on the technician, but what a lot of crap!  Far far too much work!  A nonsense design. I'll never be buying a GE washing machine that's for sure.

  4. madcaps1 says:

    I bought this same GE model about three years ago because I still wanted a top load, no-lock lid, and a real agitator model. I bought a new whirlpool top load Whirlpool model today with an agitator, but a locking lid. I hope it last longer. The GE was junk. Toward the end it wouldn't spin clothes dry and after a wasted $80 service call where they informed me it would be $250 to fix, I bought the Whirlpool at Lowes for $380 plus tax. I had a $25 off coupon so it ending up costing with tax $389. I will never buy a GE product again. GE APPLIANCES SUCK.

  5. Sal M says:

    GREAT VIDEO THUMBS UP FOR THIS TECHNICIAN THANKS A LOT FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE SUCH A THOROUGH VIDEO. AND BY THE WAY I AGREE BROTHER GE SUCKS I WILL NEVER BUY GE AGAIN.

  6. thomas hunter says:

    Very noisy spin cycle on 18 month old  GE washer. Paid $90.00 for a 3 minute estimate from manufacturer repairman. Said bearings always go out. $300.00 to repair.   I Tore it completely down. Pulled out the bearing and replaced it. Long tedious job. Went step by step with the instructor. Started washer and went to spin cycle. Very loud noise, as before, on spin cycle. Add me to the list of ex-GE customers. 

  7. Elizabeth D says:

    We successfully replaced the parts and reassembled the washer. Now, the tub won't spin unless there are no clothes in it. This was never a problem before. There is also a burnt rubber smell when it gets to the spin cycle. Can you help us isolate what might be causing this problem? Thanks for the video – it's great.

  8. Shawn Burgwald says:

    I am unable to get the bearing out to save my life!  The screwdrivers don't do a darn thing.  I've tried flipping it over and tapping on the bearing from inside the tub, but no luck there either.  Any other recommendations?

  9. kng2bishop says:

    The technician told me it would be too expensive unless you DIY.  I'm a big DIY person, but I can get a new one for 300$ and parts are about 30$+my time.  Mine lasted over 10 years.  Yes, I will buy GE again.

  10. Michael childers says:

    This bearing is simply a sleeve and never goes out. If making noise, its probably in transmission or mode shifter as this has. No need to disassemble console for this job.

  11. Michael childers says:

    Always recommend ge. This design is simpler than the maytag, amana, and frigidaire. Whirlpools break more often but generally easier to work on.

  12. jon dough says:

    Gosh, this would be at least a full days labor for the average owner. And who has a spanner that size ?  GE is no longer in the appliance business,sold to Whilrpool.

  13. 2sontubber says:

    People come on. Have we gotten to the point that this repair seems TOO complex. This is actually fairly easy as repairs of this nature go. Time consuming – perhaps, but not that difficult. As for the GE haters and those finding fault with the design, any washer no matter the make is going to seem arcane to someone. Try looking up this repair on a Whirlpool.

  14. 2sontubber says:

    And under the category of "…half of what you read" Whirpool is NOT part of GE or visa versa. Whirlpool owns or controls Kitchen Aid, Roper, Maytag, including Jenn-Air, Amana, Jade, Magic Chef, Admiral, Hoover, and about a dozen other brands in Brazil, Italy, Japan and more – BUT NOT GE.

  15. hobbies4fun101 says:

    Easier to purchase a new washer since they are designed to be thrown away after a few years, their all junk we all live in a throw away society.

  16. jorge hernandez says:

    Greetings, I have a Maytag Bravos MVWB755YQ0. I replaced the tub bearings with a bearing kit using the appropriate bearing press. During the last 6 min of the spin, as the speed increases, a tapping/knocking sound develops. does anyone know the problem and solution?

  17. Ronald DeLong says:

    any tricks in removing the tub nut

  18. Joe Bagadonus says:

    To be a good teacher is a gift…you certainly have that gift.

  19. Bouboune says:

    Hello I just did this repair on my Kemore Elite Oasis. Now during spin cycle it start making alot of noise and I get a UL code then machine stop.

  20. Robert Ramsey says:

    Very good video but my son and I tried everything to get the tub washer loose. Heat, penetrating oil, hammering etc. Nut never moved. Whole assembly moved. Had proper spanner wrench and were turning the right way. Will live with the noise until need to replace

  21. oleg Rashevskij says:

    Спасибо, очень помогли

  22. M C says:

    Jesus Christ!…Just buy a whirlpool direct drive washer.

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  24. Ted King says:

    I went through all of the disassembly and now I cannot get the stupid bearing out. Don’t waste your time with this fix unless you feel very lucky. Parts are fairly cheap online but if you have to pay someone to do this you may as well buy a new washer. Not even positive the noise is from the tub bearing. If you are going to do the tear down, plan to replace all possible sources of the noise. I will order a new washer today. We live in a disposable world.

  25. Ted King says:

    I was able to finally get the bearing out. Since I was also replacing the tub seal, I was able to turn the tub over and go at it from the top down. The reinstall was fine except for the belt reinstall. I did pick up a hint from another video comment to use a zip tie to help reinstall the belt. I don’t think I would have gotten it back on without that hint. Unfortunately the spin cycle noise is improved but still very load. I’m not sure all my effort and $ was worth the effort. Good luck to anyone who decides to take this task on. The video was excellent but it is more difficult than it looks. Before I try a DIY project in the future, I will definitely read all of the comments first!!!

  26. appliance repair says:

    I'm an appliance repair guy and I won't do these anymore. The last one that I attempted was a huge loss. Took 3 hours and when complete, turned out that the transmission was bad also. Hard to distinguish between a bad bearing or a bad bearing AND transmission. The tub did not come off without a huge fight. The bearing would also not come out easily. I had to use a torch, huge hammers, impact wrench and a helper. This repair is a lose lose. Get a new machine or a used whirlpool direct drive. Kudos to the tech in the video, excellent work. Can tell that this unit was 'prepared' in advance – nuts turn, tubs lifts right off – bearing comes right out… In the real world this is a very difficult, loud and dirty job. Performing this repair in someone's beautiful home is pure hell. BTW, I do replace front load bearings/spiders etc and find them EASIER to do than this top loader. Of course those are worth much more than this free curbside pickup GE unit.

  27. Al Gorel says:

    That was tough to watch. That bearing/sleeve won’t go bad by looking at the size of it.
    When you have noise, it is probably the transmission. We all know where these parts come from. Not here anymore. Low quality materials used, can’t tell the difference just
    by eye. Now with tariffs we will be paying more for this lousy crap. Disposal clothes anyone?

  28. icankickmagda says:

    Good instructions and video but the tub bearing does not slide out that easily. I've been gently working at it as shown for almost an hour and have gotten it maybe 1/4 an inch out. There will be marring of the plastic around it no matter how gently you go. My C washer split in half when I took it off so I'd suggest adding that to your parts list when you order.

  29. Jon Larsen says:

    I enjoy your videos, I seem to notice a Canadian accent.

  30. Kathy Lewis says:

    Great video but I wish as he assembled it agsin was a closer view do you could see it … camera to far away.

  31. greg0716 says:

    Pass. Im buying a new non ge washer

  32. Billy Piano says:

    Wow, what a pain in the you-know-what! I think I’ll just look for a used washer!

  33. Billy Piano says:

    Going a bit slower would be nice.

  34. condor5635 says:

    Are the rear support rods different (springs different maybe) than the front ones? Why are they so much more money to buy?

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