Washing Machine Repair- Replacing the Tub Bearing Kit (Whirlpool Part # 6-2040130)
Washing Machine Repair- Replacing the Tub Bearing Kit (Whirlpool Part # 6-2040130)


Steve: Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today
we’re going to show you how to change the tub bearing kit on your washer. It’s really
not that difficult a job, but you will need a lot of tools. Five 5/16th nut driver, 1/4
inch nut driver, and #20 torx bit, flat blade screw driver, stubby Phillips screw driver,
Corbin clamp pliers or Kenalog pliers, 1/8-inch Allen key wrench, half inch wrench, short
handle three pound sledge hammer or dead blow hammer, spanner wrench, half inch socket and
ratchet, 3/8th socket and extension and ratchet. Let me show you how you we do it. Now before
we begin this repair, the first thing we should do is disconnect the power to the washer.
Simply pull the plug from the receptacle. Now the first step in the repair will be to
remove the front panel. There are two Phillips screws about an inch in from either side,
just under that lip. So either with a stubby Phillips screw driver or pull the machine
forward enough so that you can tilt it back and remove those two screws. Once we’ve removed the two screws, we’ll pull
the front panel out at the bottom and tilt it down and disconnect the two spring clips
at the top. Now we can set that aside. Now with the front panel removed, we now have
access to the two 3/8th bolts that hold the main top to the cabinet. So we’ll remove those
two bolts. Now our next step will be to raise the main top and we will support the lid as
we do that so it doesn’t tilt back on us and then lower it down against the console. Now
the main top should stay in position by itself. Next we’ll remove the water inlet injector,
just twist it 90 degrees towards the center of the tub and pop it out of the tub cover.
We can just tuck that out of the way. Next, we’re going to remove the screw that
holds the tub cover band clamp in place. It may need to be a slotted head screw or a 5/16ths,
and there are two clamp screws directly opposite each other, we only need to loosen one of
them, and shouldn’t have to remove it but loosen it as far as it will go. And then with
the flat blade, just catch the lip of that clamp to make sure it’s free all the way around.
Then we can lift that clamp right off of the tub and set that aside. Next, we’ll remove the tub cover, there is
a triangular gasket that fits down into the outer tub and it will probably come off with
the tub cover but if not, just simply peel it out of the tub, set those two items aside,
now we’re ready to remove the agitator and depending on the age of your machine, it may
be held in place with a 1/4-inch hex head set screw or it may be a rubber grommet friction
fit. If it has a set screw, it’ll be located right opposite a small bleed hole in the base
of the agitator. Now you don’t have to take that set screw completely out, just turn it
back a couple of turns and that should be enough to release it. Once you’ve turned it over a couple of turns,
you can simply slide the agitator off of the agitator shaft and again if your machine does
not have a set screw that holds the agitator in place you will need to grasp both edges
of the agitator and push sharply upwards and if it’s really tight, you may need to locate
an agitator and force it off that way. We’ll set that aside, now that gives us access to
the mounting [indiscernible] [00:04:50] tub bearing assemblies, so there is a large clamping
nut that holds the inner tub in place, we need to take that off first and we’ll use
our spanner wrench and either a dead blow hammer or a short mallet. We need to take caution inside of this tub
because it has a porcelain tub and if you hit it with anything hard, it will chip that
porcelain. So we’ll set our spanner wrench over top of the tub nut and there is a left
hand thread, so you’re going to turn it clockwise to loosen it. With a couple of sharp raps,
just rotate the tub down off. Now if you get one that won’t come off, you can take a sharp
chisel and just cut it on both sides straight down which being careful not to damage the
threads and discard the old one and replace it with a new one. Next, we’ll lift off the
cap for the inner tub and then just rock the tub side by side to break it free from the
mounting stem and then we are going to lift that tub right out. Next we have the mounting stem, it is held
in place with a set screw, and depending on the age of the machine it may either may be
a 1/8 inch Allen key or may be a #20 torx, so locate it some one of four slots around
the edge of it. Loosen the set screw, remove the set screw completely, set it aside, and
with our spanner wrench again, and again it is a left hand thread, so we’re going to turn
it clockwise to loosen it, and slide the mounting stem off of at the agitator shaft. Now if
your tub bearing has failed chances are that the cause of that failure is with the mounting
stem. So carefully inspect that if you see any signs of corrosion or if you see grease
coming through the top of it you probably should replace this part as well. Next, we’ll
remove the barrel seal, and it’s just a friction fit to the outer tub, just twist it off and
lift it out of place. Again inspect the top of that, there is a carbon ring around the
top and if there are any chips or gauges in it, that would need to be replaced as well. Next, we have to remove the outer tub and
before we do that, there is an air dome tube that comes down on the right hand side in
the rear, it’s held to the outer tub with a clamp and with either a pair of Corbin clamp
pliers or if you don’t have a set of these pair of channel locks, we’ll reach down in
there and remove that clamp, and you simply depress the clamp, slide it up the air dome
tube beneath it. We can remove the tube from the nipple on the tank. Next we have to remove
the three tub mounting bolts, and they are actually different lengths. The two at the
rear are slightly longer than the one at the front, so we want to make sure that when we
put this back together that we keep the short one on the front. So with a half inch wrench
and socket, just remove all those. There will be a nut, a lock washer and a rectangular
washer and that rectangular washer has a curve in it that is shaped same as the outer tub,
between the outer tub and the support arm there is a fiber washer, remove that as well.
Now the only thing that remains to be done is to remove the tub to pump hose and just
loosen the clamp at the base of the tub with a 5/16th head screw on the clamp. And
now we’re going to lift the tub out of the
cabinet and we’ll sit that on the floor just carefully because there is an outlet nipple
for the tub to pump hose. And we’ll set either a block of 2/4 or at the head of that dead
blow hammer just to support that edge of the tub and with our tub bearing removal tool,
which should be your foot, we’ll just press that bearing out of the tub. Now there is
also a bearing sleeve that is on the transmission housing, we’ll slide that off and if it doesn’t
come off that easily, it’s a fairly hard material so you could take a chisel and just cut it
in two spots and it should fall right off. You will notice some relief grooves on the
side of the transmission housing and depending on the age you will either have two or three
and that’s the location that you would aim your chisel in. Now, to install our new bearing, we’ll turn
the tub upside down. We’ll make sure that, that opening is clean and free of any rust.
We’ll take the new bearing and we are going to press that into place. Again, with our
bearing tool, make sure it sits flush all the way around the base of the tub. We’ll
clean of any dirt that we may have gotten off of our shoe. Install the new sleeve on
the transmission, and I’m now ready to drop the tub back in. Now we’ll line it up so that
the hole in the front lines up properly. Next, we’ll reinstall the three tub bolts as I mentioned
there is one that will be a little bit shorter than the others and that short one goes on
the front. We’ll keep the fiber washer between the tub and the tub support, and there should
be new fiber washers with your kit. Inspect the head of those tub bolts to make sure that
the rubber gasket is still intact, and if not, you will need to replace those. Any square
washer, make sure the markings are facing out, so that the contour of the flat washer
is the same as the tub. Install a lock washer; we won’t tighten any
of these yet, we’ll just make sure that they are all started and take caution not to turn
the bolt. When you do that, you run the risk of damaging that rubber gasket and that could
create a leak if you damage that. So, we’ll just start them and then we will turn the
nut and hold the head of the bolt steady with the wrench. And once we have all three tub
blots started, we can tighten them up individually. Again, we will put the ratchet on the outside,
and just hold the head of the bolt on the inside. Now before we go any further, it’s
a good idea to put the tub, the pump hose on at this point. We didn’t put it on just
in case we dropped a part down into the hose. In the clamp hose front
and snug the clamps up nice and tight. Next,
we’re ready to install the tub seal. So we want to make sure that the inside lip of the
outer tub is nice and clean and free of any debris, and the same with the rubber edge
of the tub seal. And you can moisten that with a little water to make it little easier
to put on, and take caution not to squeeze the top of it or you will crack that carbon
face. So we’re going to just grasp the bottom of
it and twist it into place. We need to make sure that it goes right flush at the bottom
of the tub. Once you have it bottomed out just depress the spring in it to make sure
that it doesn’t bind on the side of the tub bearing. And if it does, rotate it a little
bit to make sure that it doesn’t touch. Next, we’ll reinstall the mounting stem. Again,
this is a left hand thread. Now when installing the mounting stem, we don’t want to over tighten
it. Just want to make sure that the bottom is out. If you tighten it too much, it will
compress that inner sleeve for the tub bearing and cause it [indiscernible] [00:16:53] and
it will cause a premature failure of that tub bearing. The set screw that we reinstall
will keep the mounting stem from becoming loose. Now as we insert that set screw, it
has a sharp point on the end of it that will engage with the transmission housing. So we
are going to give it good, sharp tork to make sure that we indent that housing and then
we can just back it off a little bit. We don’t want to put too much pressure on the agitator
shaft because that has to turn inside of there. Now if the head of that set screw is not sticking
out at least a sixteenth of an inch, passed the shoulder of the mounting stem, it would
indicate that we we’ve gone into one of those grooves on the side of the transmission housing
and it will just work back and forth until it eventually causes some damage. So if that’s
the case, loosen the mounting stem a little bit and reset the screw. Now we’re ready to
put the inner tub back in place, just rotate that tub enough that it centers itself. We’ll
reinstall the cap and the
tub nut, again left hand thread so it goes counter clockwise to tighten it. Now the tub
nut needs to be tightened securely, so tighten it until it doesn’t want to turn anymore.
Next, we’ll put the tub cover back on, and before we reinstall the tub cover, we want
to inspect the gasket that fits around that. It’s a three sided triangular shaped gasket,
there is a groove on one side of it and the groove side should lie up against the tub
cover. So make sure that, that’s the case and make sure there’s no twists and that’s
in good condition. Now we can reinstall the tub cover. Now the
important thing in putting the tub cover in is that this portion at the back be parallel
with the back of the cabinet that is part of our lid switch mechanism for our other
bounds set up. Now what I will suggest is to raise that tub cover enough that your hand
will fit easily between the tub cover and the top of the inner tub, push the gasket
down to hold it up in place, and we’ll do our final adjustments after we put the main
top down. We’ll take the band clamp and we’ll locate the adjusting screw that we didn’t
touch in the left rear corner so that we have access to the proper one at the front. Lift
the clamp over the gasket and you may need your flat blade screw driver to do this because
that clamp also has to engage to the lip on the outer tub. Make sure that all the way
around the tub that, that clamp does engage the outer tub and we’ll just tighten it up
a little bit. Again, we’ll make sure that the tub cover is pulled up fairly high. Next,
we’ll reinstall the air dome tube and clamp. And there is a couple of methods you can do
that. This is normally held in place with a clip
that sometimes is accessible and sometimes not. And if it’s accessible, you can release
that clip during the disassembly procedure and actually pull the outer tub right up and
then have better access to the clamp. Tilt the tub away from it and make sure that that
air dome tube is pointing straight up and down. And with our pliers, we’ll reset the
clamp, we will position that clamp so that it’s easy to access. Now before we reinstall
the water injection tube, we’ll set the height of the tub cover. So we’ll lower the main
top till it rests on the cabinet. What we’re looking for is about a quarter of an inch
gap between the top of the tub cover and the bottom edge of the main top. We don’t want
it too close or it will scrape on it, but if it’s too low, articles are clothing with
over the top of the inner tub and get caught in between the two tubs. Make sure it’s even
all the way around. We can lift the main top again, and now we can tighten the clamp. A
little trick with this stall of clamp is that they will bind up on that gasket, so just
give it a little gentle tap with a rubber hammer around the edges of the tub, particularly
in the back corner. Now we’ll free that up and after that we can
tighten it securely. Now we can moisten the inlet of the tub cover where the water injection
tube will fit, rotate it 90 degrees, and then turn it towards the back of the cabinet, make
sure it’s engaged fully. Next, we’ll put the agitator in. Locate the set screw, set it
firmly down into place, and then tighten that set screw. Now we’re ready to put the main
top down, and we can secure the main top to the cabinet with the two, 3/8ths bolts. Now
before we put the main top down, we will take note where these 3/8ths bolts go. There is
a single hole on the left hand side and a single hole through the cabinet. On the right
hand side, there are two holes, one smaller one for the bolt and the same thing on the
cabinet, there is a small hole for the bolt and a large one there is well. So make sure
that we don’t use the large holes on the right hand side. We’ll start those by hand. Make
sure that we don’t get them in cross threaded. And make sure both of the bolts are nice and
snug so that we don’t have any vibration from the cabinet. And now we’re ready to reinstall
the front panel. Now to install the front panel, we’ll hook
these two spring clips up into the top with the panel tilted forward and then just hinge
it back into place, keeping an upper pressure on panel, then we can install the two screws.
These screws glean at about 45 degree angle so either you’re going to need a stubby Phillips
screw driver or start them by hand and then tilt the machine back to give yourself enough
room to put a regular screw driver on it. Make sure, they’re good and tight so that
the front panel doesn’t rattle. Now, we’re ready to reconnect the power and our repair
is complete. I told you it wasn’t that difficult. Thanks for watching and good luck with your
repair.

24 thoughts on “Washing Machine Repair- Replacing the Tub Bearing Kit (Whirlpool Part # 6-2040130)”

  1. newgulleytube says:

    Great video, I've waded through dozens of repair forums where the final remark was telling them that the parts and/or labor were too costly or cumbersome to do yourself. That they should just take it to a repair tech or replace the unit altogether. It seems that in most cases the company that sells the parts will be the first to tell you how to fix it yourself. Although the other forums were useful in that collectively they gave me enough information conduct a search that led to this video.

  2. ForAllAnimals says:

    Excellent video! Thank you so much for creating and sharing your knowledge!

  3. Comptekhs says:

    How can I get the old one off it is stuck onto the transmission shaft. I have tried a pair of pliers and also tried to spin it off still no luck. If I can get the old one off what can I do to keep the new one from getting stuck on permanent like this one.

  4. Comptekhs says:

    I finally have my tub bearing replaced and stem seal. My machine was spinning before I replaced them. Now my machine will not spin and I smell the belt burning during spin cycle. I know my pump is pumping the water out. I checked to make sure the top was not rubbing. What else can I do to check why it is stuck and not spinning?

  5. Comptekhs says:

    What is the part number on your site for the idler pulley?

  6. cosmo103 says:

    hi I need some help I have a maytag washer machine model no. hav2360aww. i'm trying to replace the timer but I can't get it off. because I don't see any screws or clips. any help I will thank.

  7. PartSelect says:

    Hi there,

    There should be six screws – do you see any on the sides of the top, where the control panel is?

  8. paul2072z says:

    I need to replace the tub bearing and seal on my Maytag LAT9557AAE due to noise and water leaking. But the agitator shaft (with the plastic agitator auger attached) comes out of the transmission easily. What holds the agitator shaft in place on the transmission on my unit? Thanks

  9. PartSelect says:

    The agitator shaft is held in place in your washer’s transmission by the agitator hold down bolt. The bolt connects the agitator to the top of the transmission shaft. In addition, there’s a small spline on the transmission shaft and also on the agitator to help with a tight fit. Hope that helps.

  10. paul2072z says:

    Is this agitator hold down bolt available? I want to order it, along with bearing and seal, but I don't see this bolt anywhere in your transmission diagram…I need to keep the agitator shaft from coming out of the transmission housing. Thank you.

  11. PartSelect says:

    Hi Paul,

    Yes – the part you need is called the locking screw and O-ring. The locking screw is located on the side of the agitator, and keeps the entire assembly locked down. You can find this on our website, and the part number required for your model is 22001819.

    I hope that helps!

  12. paul2072z says:

    No, you're mistaken. This screw 22001819 holds the plastic agitator onto the steel agitator shaft. I have this installed already.

    On my unit, the whole steel agitator shaft PS2347244 pulls out very easily from the transmission (with the whole plastic agitator PS2019803 still attached to the steel agitator shaft). I need to keep the agitator Shaft firmly in the transmission housing. I hope this is clearer now…

  13. han nguyen says:

    excellent video! Thanks

  14. Terry Glenn says:

    Excellent video – I had the old style metal tub cap – you had the only instruction in the world I could find providing a good view and how to do this correctly.
    Thanks again. Had to replace bearings and seals in the old Maytag A612 – had to cut out the nuts and sleeve with dremel tool, but it was worth it. The motor and tranny and everything else works fine. Had to redo the rusted tub drain too – expoxy and brazing worked well, and now this washer should go for quite a while longer. Works like a new one. Thanks again.

  15. mellenjack55 says:

    Hi, Steve. I followed your video here to the letter and watched it a few times. Everything went well on my tub bearing and tub seal job on my Maytag. The old bearing assy. was so rusted, it stuck to the input shaft when I pulled the outer tub off. I soaked it with WD-40, then I cut  one side of it as best I could with my Dremel tool, then used a short angled shaft pry bar with the chisel-like tip and a hammer to knock it loose and get it off. Then I used the Dremel tool to cut either side of the bearing sleeve and knocked it right off. That`s a good idea they came up with, designing that shaft with 2 slots to accommodate using a cutting wheel if you need to!  After the repair, I ran the washer on "spin" cycle for 4-5 minutes to be sure it was okay, then started  my laundry. Works like a charm now! Thanks so much!  Now, on to my water inlet valve replacement job on my dishwasher!

  16. dolphinsc1 says:

    Enjoyed watching the video. Very interesting stuff.
    Thanks.

  17. sandiegohome03 says:

    Great video, just bought a used Maytag A712 (circa 1988 model) off of Craigslist and this helped strip it down and clean it up. We had a Maytag (A512 I think) from 1986 to 2014 and for some reason replaced the washer and dryer when the gas dryer died. We got a LG front loader and my wife HATED IT, the front loaders have no water in them and she was rewashing loads multiple times to get dirt and beach sand off of clothes. Also they are high maintenance there are all kinds of things to do (wipe the rubber or it smells, filters to clean, leave the door open,…) So we went back to the classic easily repairable Maytag top loaders. Drove 180 miles round trip to pick up the used Maytag A712 and LOVE IT. Who would have thought a tub full of hot water swirling around would be so satisfying.

  18. fred handy says:

    What washer is this? I've never seen this type of whirlpool before. Thought there were only the classic belt drive (70's-80's), the design 2000 (direct drive) and the new Cabrio (high efficient lock lid) version.

  19. דוד אברהם סמרלי says:

    very helpul video ,the head bolt holding the agitator is missing .how can i unscrew what left of the screw in order to remove the agitator

  20. Perfekt says:

    I have these parts ordered and have a question.
    You put the sleeve on the transmission – then put the tub over it , shouldn't some grease be used on this?

  21. Darkmand8 says:

    do you also have to replace the mounting stem/tub seal kit as well, while replacing the bearing kit?

  22. Glenn Miller says:

    I have a 2000 model Maytag lat9696age that is leaking water on the spin cycle from the centre of the tub, do I have to replace the tub bearing when I replace the stem seal kit?
    Thanks

  23. M C says:

    Jesus Christ! Throw this washer in the trash and buy an old Whirlpool Direct Drive machine.

  24. Kalman Labovitz says:

    Awesome video and very helpful. For some additional tricks to help slide parts off and on check out this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGolkFlgl3Y . But this is by far the best video

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