Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Tub Seal (GE Part # WH02X10032)
Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Tub Seal (GE Part # WH02X10032)


Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today we’re
going to show you how to change the tub seal on your washer. It’s a pretty easy job. We’ll
show you how we do it. Now to do this repair we’re going to need a variety of tools. We’ll
start with a stiff putty knife, a quarter inch and 5/16th nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver,
a 7/16th wrench or socket and ratchet, a pair of needle nosed pliers, and a one and 11/16th
spanner wrench, and large hammer. Let’s get to it. Now before we begin this repair, we are going
to need to disconnect the power so pull the plug to the washer. We’re also going to want
to pull that washer far enough forward so we can remove the fill hoses from the back
so be sure to turn off the water supply before you remove the hoses. Once we’ve done that,
we’ll take our putty knife and we’re going to go in this gap between the front panel
and the top panel and you’ll locate a hidden spring in there. Simply depress it with the
putty knife and pull the front panel forward. And tilt the front panel forward and lift
it off the two tabs on the bottom that’s secured there. You can set that aside, next with our
quarter inch nut driver, we’re going to add two screws that secure the top panel to the
cabinet. Next we’re going to remove three screws that
secure the console to the back panel. So using our quarter inch nut driver, remove those
three screws. Now with the screws removed we can tilt that console forward and just
slide it a bit to the right to disengage it from the main top and then we’re going to
lay that down. Next with our needle nosed pliers, we’re going to pull the air dome tube
off of the pressure switch and just gently pull that hose to disengage it. Now we can
pull that panel back out of the way. Just hang from the back of the machine. Now I’m
going to take the main top and just lift it up, couple of inches. Next we’re going to
raise the lid to its open position. Then we’re going to depress the tab on the back of that
lid switch towards the front and then we can push the lid switch up through the opening
and you can pull that switch towards the back of the washer. Release it and drop it through
the opening. Now close the lid, then we can remove the
main top. Next we can set that console on top of the washer again and then we’re going
to remove the quarter inch screws that secure that mounting bracket to the washer frame.
We’ll pull that off. Remove the back panel and just let it hang a little back in the
washer. Ok now take the ending caps, slide those out of the way, and we can take the
control panel and the mounting bracket and just let those completely out of the way.
Next we’re going to remove the agitator from the tub. So we’re just going to reach in and
grab the skirt of the agitator, the very bottom of it and give a sharp pull upwards. Just
pop that off of the dry block, remove it and we’ll set that aside. Our next with our 7/16th
wrench or socket and ratchet we’re going to remove the bolt on top of the agitator dry
block and we can pull that dry block off of the agitator shaft and we’ll set that aside. Now next we’ll take our 5/16th nut driver,
we’re going to remove the screws that secure the suspension straps to the tub cover. Remove
this screw and then lift the strap off of the tub cover tab, we’ll inspect those straps
as well to make sure that they’re in good shape and if they show any signs of wear or
cracking, we’ll replace those at the same time. Next we’re going to release the tabs
that hold the tub cover to the outer tub so just press down slightly on the tub cover
and then pull the tabs away from the tub to release them. Then we can lift the tub cover
free. Set it aside. Now with our 1 and 11/16th spanner wrench,
we’ll set that over the tub nut and because it is a left hand thread, we’re going to turn
it clockwise to loosen it. So with a bare hammer, give it a good sharp rap. Completely
remove the tub nut and set that aside. We can now lift straight up on the interbasket
and remove it from the washer. So next we’ll take a flat blade screwdriver and gently spread
that split ring just enough so it’ll slide up off of the shaft.Next we’ll lift the hub
washer off of the shaft. Next with a flat blade screwdriver we’re going to pry that
old seal out of the tub. If you remove a little bit of the crud that’s on top of the seal
we’ll get an idea of how large it is and what we want to do is pry that seal out of the
opening of the tub without damaging the center hub of the tub so. Just work your way around
it. Once you have that seal moving you can take two screwdrivers and squeeze opposite
of each other and pry it straight out. Then we’ll just slide that completely up and away
and we’ll discard the old seal. Now before we install the new seal we’ll want
to make sure that this shaft is nice and clean and dry so with a rag we’ll just wipe any
of the excess dirt off at first. Then we’ll do a good close inspection to make sure that
it’s not pitted and that the seal will make a good contact with the surface. Now in installing
the new seal, it’s a good idea to take a little bit of dish detergent and rub around the outside
edge of the seal. That will allow it to slide into this opening a little easier. So either
a little dish detergent or some rinse aid will do just nicely. Now once we’ve lubricated
that outside edge. Want to carefully slide that down over that center shaft and then
firmly press it into the recess of the outer tub. Make sure it’s flush all the way around.
Now we’ll install our new hub washer, slide that down till it bottoms out on that shoulder.
We’ll discard our old split ring, install a new one. Ok, we’ll just slide that down
over that shaft and if it’s a little tight just carefully spread it with a flat blade
screw driver and make sure it bottoms out on that washer. Next we’ll put the inter spin
basket back into position. So we’ll let that sit right on top of that split ring. Just
rock it back and forth till it centers itself. We’ll take our new tub nut and remembering
that it is a left hand thread, we’re going to turn counter clockwise to tighten it. So
just gently rock that tub back and forth to tighten that knot. Now we’ll use our spanner wrench and we do
need to tighten that knot securely. Now installing the tub cover we want to first of all make
sure that the gasket is in good shape all around it. Then we’re going to locate the
bleach inlet in the left front corner. So tuck it down in, around the top of the cabinet,
making sure that we keep the tabs outside of the outer tub.Then we’ll use the large
forked locators to make sure that we have it properly in position. Now once we have
it lined up, just press the tabs on over the hooks on the outer tub. Making sure that you
keep these things straight. Keeping all of them engaged. Making sure all the tabs snap
firmly into position and it’s locked firmly on. Next we’ll install the tub dampening straps
and with our 5/16th nut driver we’ll replace the retaining screws. Now we’re ready to put the control panel mounting
bracket back into position. So we’ll just rotate that around. Sit it roughly into position,
we’ll lay the control panel across the front of the tub. We’ll need to install the end
caps, make sure the hooks fit into the rectangular opens of the cabinet. So we’ll put one screw
on either side just to hold that in position. Next we’ll rotate the back panel up and slide
that in the three tabs at the back. Then we’ll put the two screws into secure that. Make
sure that that back panel lines up with the end caps before we tighten the screws. We
can now tilt the control panel back up into position and we’ll leave it there until we
put the main top on and when we put the main top on we want to make sure we engage the
slotted holes at the back of the main top. With the two hooks in the top frame. Now next we’re going to raise the lid. Just
tilt up in front of that top panel enough that we can position the lid switch up through
the opening in the main top. Keeping the wire harness towards the front, we’ll hook it in
and press down on the back of it till it snaps into place and we’ll reach in between the
top in the frame. We’ll snap the wire harness retainer into the frame. Then we can lower
that main top into position. We can close the lid. Uh next we’re going to slide the
air dome tube along the left hand side of the cabinet up through the opening in the
frame, making sure we clear the tub dampening straps. We’re going to lay that console down
flat. Pull the air dome tube clear. Fully inserted onto the pressure switch. Now we’ll line up the two tabs on the bottom
of the control panel with the slotted openings in the main top. We’ll slide that to the left.
When it’s in position, then we can replace the three quarter inch hex head screws across
the back. Make sure that the end caps fit around that back panel first. Uh next we’ll
replace the two quarter inch hex head screws that secure the main top to the cabinet. Next
we will replace the front panel and we’ll make sure that we line up those two slider
rings on the bottom with the tabs on the base frame and then as we tilt that panel forward
into position, make sure that the little locating pins line up with the openings in the front
panel and just snap it into place. Now we can replace the dry block for the agitator.
It is splined on the inside. To fit the agitator shaft, just drop it down into position. We’ll
take our 7/16th bolt and then with a ratchet or wrench, we’ll tighten that securely. We’ll
have to hold the tub in position while we do that. Next we’ll take our agitator and
we’ll put it back in place and you will note that there are some plastic tabs that hold
that to the dry block. There are also four spline guides that line up with the exterior
of that dry block and those guys also correspond with the fins on the bottom of the agitator
to help you line up easier. So set it over the dry block. Slide it down into place and
give it a sharp push to lock it into position. We’re now ready to reconnect our fill hoses
and reconnect the power and repair is complete. Told you it was an easy job. Thanks for watching
and good luck with your repair.

39 thoughts on “Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Tub Seal (GE Part # WH02X10032)”

  1. dablock2k3 says:

    not that simple……..once you get to the spanner wrench trying to remove the bolt…just aint happening;;;;bolt will not break loose…..left handed thread ….been hitting and spraying the bolt for days….sprayed it with bolt looser still want bulge..any suggestions???

  2. james willis says:

    model number wpre6150k1wt bolt use with the spanner wrench will not come off >try spraying it with d-40 still will not bulge any suggestions. ge profile

  3. John B says:

    Thanks for the video…. I have a 15 month old GE GTAN4250. Started leaking. Carried out this repair, seems to have done the trick (after the first wash). Bought a deep socket and used an impact driver, worked like a charm.   Here is hoping it lasts longer then a year this time.

  4. Israel Magana says:

    Thank you

  5. Bob Bitchin says:

    Thanks! I am dissecting my washer to replace the shaft-agitr and need all the help I can get. So far so good. To quote "The Arnold", I'll be back.

  6. Joe Cahill says:

    Super job..you are very patient and a great instructor…i watched your video..because..i just bought a used GE american made..(same as this one) down here in Costa Rica..tested it seems fine…only concerned maybe of bearings…i did not hear any loud noises in spin cyle…so seems ok…any advice..greatly appreciated

  7. benzc43 says:

    Every time I wash my whites, I get oil stains.. Is this the fix to it?

  8. Oni-DHoy says:

    I removed the tub but with a spanner wrench but there looks like there's another weird looking spline nut under it? Also the inner tub will not come out. PLEASE HELP

  9. Sergio Penha says:

    Muito Bom, Parabéns! Congratulations!

  10. @tlas says:

    I have a GE washer with model gbxr1070w0ww. When I search part select it takes me to VBXR1070W0WW . Is that the same washer?
    Second, from the video, it seems like there is a kit that comes together with new tub seal and nuts etc (all the new parts shown in the video). From part select I only see the individual parts (tub seal by itself, etc.). How do I find the kits?

  11. Harsh Hariyani says:

    how old is this GE washer model # WLSR2000G2WW ??

    I am looking to replace the timer knob, its not engaging. Any videos on this?

  12. Michael Cavanaugh says:

    Great video. Saved me 100's of dollars. Thank you very much. My washing machine is a G.E. model WLSR2200J5WW. The seal I used was WH02X10383, and the spanner wrench was a Supco TB123A. The split ring was PS1766022.

    A great place for info is: http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=WLSR2200J5WW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

    That is where I found this great video.

  13. Todd White says:

    This is a much better site than the others I've watched. You are being helpful and very informative. Good job. I'm sure many will benefit from your clear understanding video.

  14. CBAdventureRider says:

    After removing the 7/16 bolt I spent an hour trying to get the Agitator Coupler off. I finally had to go purchase a 3 arm gear puller at the auto store which did the trick. Excellent video though which helped greatly.

  15. ANDRES AVILA says:

    I have replace the Tub Seal twice. on both replacement, the washing machine doesn't leak until the 4th or fifth load and then it starts leaking again. Right now it is leaking again and this will be the third repair.
    Am I doing something wrong? or the shaft is worn out.
    I will appreciate your help.

  16. Joshua Smith says:

    @PartSelect if that ring (not the nut) doesn't split in half, how pertinent is it that it's changed? will it impact the leaking at all? when these machines leak due to the seal, how much of it is/could be attributed to that ring? thanks

  17. VileDesecrator says:

    Thanks for this simple how to video, got me through my problem with ease! If you all dont have a spanner wrench, an eight inch pipe wrench worked for me, just be careful not to chew the nut up.

  18. Harry Isaac says:

    Great video just finished watching a video not to helpful basically suggested i take it to a professional hopefully i wont have to bye my daughter a new one after watching this who knows what i would like to know is would i have any problem ordering parts from the local washing machine shop as i have problems repairing my car they look at you funny when order parts sometimes it cost just to look at it

  19. Wendy Robertson says:

    Great video. I fixed the leak. However, now the washing machine won't spin very well and the left hand thread tub nut keeps coming loose. The second time I tightened it with the spanner wrench as best I could. Is there something else that might cause this problem? Model #GMAN2008D0WS

  20. Blackie Kane says:

    Very Good instructional format…easy to follow…I give it a try…Thank "U"

  21. lowriderphil says:

    thank you for this video. its a bit harder on a washer that has all the build up from hard water and years of gunk from use. also I bought a $6 cheap pipe wrench and cut the handle down with a cut off wheel instead of the $55 for the tub spanner wrench.

  22. Ahmed Salman says:

    Thank you, it helped me fix my washer.

  23. Elba Cruz says:

    i have a question i have a htwp1000moww hotpoint does not spin trying to change the agitator coupling but my agitator coupling and the agitator are attach and can not separated do anyone know if this is one piece or two and if two how do i separated them

  24. Mark Biggs says:

    Have used a can of WD40, bought the required spanner wrench and the nut won't budged. Model# GLWN2800D0WS

  25. carnut76 says:

    You suggested replacing the split ring, do you have a part# for that ring? Thanks!

  26. Adam Cruz says:

    so how was the washer acting, it's" symptoms", that you knew the tub seal was bad?

  27. Terry Beals says:

    I have GE profile prodigy. I changed the seal. Everything looked fine when I took it apart. shaft seemed smooth and in good shape. The seal slipped on just fine. It still leaks. Any ideas?

  28. Dirty30 Productions says:

    1st time doing a washer seal on this style unit. this video made it very simple thank you!!

  29. theuofc says:

    Many thanks to Steve for his clear and patient demonstration. He didn't rush through anything and we understood
    what to do every step of the way.

    A comment to the photographer: a great closeup at about 3:04 in. It would be very helpful to have closeups for every thing "Steve is doing to let us see the place to put the bolt in, hooking up the hoses in back, etc. Only seeing Steve from ten feet away from the camera isn't good enough. Thanks again.

  30. Dirty30 Productions says:

    I have replaced the seal twice now and the machine is still leaking down the shaft slightly. Shaft seams to be nice and smooth and have seated the seal firmly in place both times. Seal was about 1/16 or so from flush both times. Doesn't want to get completely flush. Still the seal is even all the way around. I also made sure everything was clean and free of debris. Any tips or suggestions would be great. I'm thinking maybe the outer tube is bad?
    Thanks

  31. ricardo340 says:

    PITA, Whirlpool direct drive is way easier.

  32. Meni Rosales says:

    Thks for you help your video is very good

  33. Mario Quezada says:

    Step 1: Struggle to take the washer completely apart
    Step 2: Struggle to replace the faulty part
    Step 3: Struggle to put the whole washer back together
    Step 4: Hope it fixes the leak

    F that noise, Jack. Time for a replacement.

  34. Andrew Ludwig says:

    still leaked when done i discovered i put lock nut upside down yay no leaks now

  35. Chuck Spires says:

    Would really like to thank someone (NOT) for this very informative (NOT) real world video (NOT) on how to perform this job (NOT) so anyone can do this (NOT) just like a pro (NOT) (NOT) (NOT) and (NOT)!!!!!

  36. jaime del salto says:

    If you washer is old as mine there will be not as the video you will find rust dirt and very difficult to remove but every piece will be out if you try harder o hammer more times… used the wrench by in Amazon 8 or 10 dollars and remove the nut and the washer with the wrench is the only way… to remove the gasket basically you need to break it apart… even do everything as shown in the video it's still leaking I dnt know why… yet under shaft… ( shaft it's ok no damage I guess I have to take the whole thing off and check outside clear plastic drum??? My last try and then buy a new one…

  37. WhateverUDecide says:

    nothing not 1 thing goes as you show it. how about doing these repairs on a used unit so it does not look so easy and is actually relevant to the people watching the videos real vs easy real cut hub nut into 6 parts and beat off with a hammer. because it ruined your 50$ hub nut spanner vs new give it a light tap… real beat inner tub off the outer tub because the flange is so corroded that they are one, vs new lightly lift it out… blah why would we be taking a new one apart?
    no one but you would… i give this repair tutorial a -1 star for being as lazy as a mfr could and still doing the repair. real world … noone works on there new appliance ever

  38. Audelio Espinoza says:

    Very cool professional complete video
    Thx.

  39. Don Rather says:

    I'll never ever buy a GE anything again! I have looked all over this 2 year old washer for a model number but cant find a thing. not under lid, on side, back, no where. 2 years old and leaking water from bottom. Also have a fairly new built in microwave and all the paint is pealing off the insides. Pathetic pieces of crap must be made in China!

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