Wheel Alignment Course, Race Track Shortcuts and More! | Today At HPA [UPDATE 223]
Wheel Alignment Course, Race Track Shortcuts and More! | Today At HPA [UPDATE 223]

– Hey guys, Andre from High Performance
Academy, welcome along to this week’s live webinar. Today we’re going to be talking about
dry sump lubrication systems, we’ll find out what a dry sump lubrication
system is, why it offers us some advantages and where those advantages lie but before
we get into that, just a bit of a recap on what’s been going on since last week’s
webinar. Had a pretty big week last week in particular,
we had the second round of the South Island Endurance Racing
Championships at our home track, Highlands Motorsport Park on Friday
and Saturday. So most of the end of last week involved
preparing the black Toyota V8 86 for that round, in particular we added a little
bit of aero with a very basic ghetto diffuser at the front, sorry splitter at the
front, diffuser at the rear. We haven’t done the diffuser yet, that’s
still to come. So yeah we built a ghetto plywood splitter
at the front, we added a couple of canards. Now I’m saying we but really I can’t take any
credit for any of this, this was all 100% Brandon’s work and he did a really good job. At the rear we had a pretty limited amount of
time to work with so we added a very basic rear wing so weren’t expecting miracles from
this. But on track it actually really did turn out that
it worked quite well. With aerodynamics and of course I don’t
profess to be an aerodynamicist but what basics I’ve picked up from talking to some
really smart people, the likes of Andrew Brilliant who designs the aero for a
lot of the World Time Attack Challenge cars, just for one example, is that the aero
obviously needs airflow over the wings, the splitter et cetera in order to start
working. So of course we start seeing the aero
effect become more prominent as the car goes faster, not exactly rocket
science here. So we’re not expecting anything major
from the slower corners in terms of our aero downforce. But in particular at our local racetrack,
Highlands Motorsport Park, we do have a very long sweeping right
hander, it goes through just about 180 degrees back on itself and we take
that corner at around about 130, 135 kilometres an hour which is fast enough
to actually get the effect of that downforce. And in looking at our back to back data,
just the addition of that splitter, the canards and that basic rear wing, we were able to
go through that corner around about four kilometres an hour faster. Doesn’t sound like an eternity but when
you’re in that corner for somewhere in the region of 20 odd seconds, that is a bunch of
time that we are picking up there. There is another section of the track which
I’m going to show you a short video of how not to approach this section but a very
fast left hander which we were approaching sort of somewhere around about
160 kilometres an hour. And we hadn’t been able to get that flat on
the throttle previously, with the aero we were. So equated to a really big dramatic drop in
our personal best. Lap times went from a previous best of
1:47.7 in qualifying for a race at the beginning of the year. In the race on the last lap I managed
1:45.1 So two and a bit seconds, it’s a pretty
significant amount of time to drop. However the race unfortunately was still
a case of what could have been. On paper, we had race pace to finish second
in our class which is for 3.5 litre and above. A class I will mention that in some case we
are fairly squarely out of our league, given that we are only running a four litre
engine. There’s some pretty big capacity engines
in there, some making much more power than us. So we were pretty happy with that however
right from the formation lap when Ben left the pits, it was clear the race wasn’t quite
going to go our way. And we had our fuel pressure issues from
the Teretonga round two weeks ago come back to bite us. I had seen a fuel pressure sensor warning
or fuel pressure warning come up on the dash during my qualifying session. I didn’t really think too much of it. This car does still run a factory fuel tank
and when we are low on fuel, it is prone to surge. Generally when we’re down below about
15 litres we will get some fuel pressure warnings come up on the dash, so I put it
down to that, fuelled the car, but as soon as Ben left the pits on the
formation lap, he was back on the radio saying that he had some problems. So obviously not exactly what we wanted to
hear. This is a rolling start so we made the
difficult call to actually pit Ben on the formation lap. This allowed us the time to work on the car,
try and get a solution for that and send him out of the pits. Of course he’d be leaving at the back of
the field so we’d kind of thrown away our chances there. I made the decision there to unplug the
fuel pressure sensor and that should have defaulted to four bar in the ECU
which should have fixed our issues. Left the pits and didn’t turn out that had
fixed it. In the meantime though, Brandon, as he
was unplugging that, thought that he’d figured out the issue with the whole
problem. Just to give a bit of a recap, we have got a
fuel pressure sensor mounted on the end of the fuel rail so I’ll just jump across
to my laptop screen for a moment and I’ll just sort of show you the general
layout in the engine bay. So this is our Honeywell fuel pressure sensor
mounted on the end of the rail. Now probably with all things considered,
not the ideal place to be locating the sensor because it is prone to vibration that’s going
to be transferred through the engine into the sensor. And in particular that’s what we actually
put our failure down to at Teretonga. At the Teretonga round we had been chasing
a really serious vibration that was a result of a poorly balanced driveshaft that we’d had
made up. In between Teretonga and our Highlands
round, we’d sent the driveshaft to another manufacturer, they’d tested it, found it was
out of balance by 20 grams, rebalanced it and that had proven to fix
our vibration issues. So for all intents and purposes we should
have been OK. However that wasn’t the case. This time it wasn’t the sensor that actually
let us down and instead it was this little connector for the sensor. Now for those who have wired any of these
Honeywell pressure sensors, you’ll know there’s two connectors available. For some reason we ended up getting
stuck with this one which is one of my most hated connectors. In so much as you have to actually pull
the wires through the connector body to start with and then you can crimp the
terminals onto them and then they pull back into the terminal body, the plastic
body. On top of this there should be a little grey
locking plate that goes over the top of this. We think this is probably part of the issue. As you can see, I’ve pulled that out and the
little grey cap that should lock all of those terminals in place in the connector body
there, has actually remained in the sensor. So we think, we’ve still got a few issues to
work through. We think that this is the issue that we
were facing. So in the next race, what we’re going to
be doing is making sure that we never ever have this issue again, we’re going to be
moving that sensor off the engine, so it’s going to be isolated from any
vibration. We’ll be replacing the connector with a
new connector and hopefully that should give us some rock solid results. So ultimately during that race we ended up
doing three unscheduled pitstops so straight away that ended up putting us about two
laps behind the lead car in our class. So we’ll jump across to my laptop screen
again. What we did here is we have to do a driver
change, there is a pit window, opens around 15 minutes into the race,
closes around 45 minutes through the race. And with our car we are a little bit limited on
our pit window as well for the driver change because we do need to drop about 30 litres
of fuel into the car during the race so obviously we need to wait ’til we’ve got down
to a point with fuel burn that we can actually fit 30 litres into the tank. Otherwise we’re going to end up running
into fuel surge issues as we get low on fuel at the end of the race. So this is our driver change here, Ben’s
getting out of the car, I’m jumping in, everything there went pretty smoothly. I headed out and straight away ran into
some more fuel surge issues. To the point where coming out of the hairpin
just before the pit entry, the car basically cut out and stopped on me. Managed to make it into pit lane, Brandon
removed that plug that I just showed you on the fuel pressure sensor, plugged it back
in, and for the rest of the race, everything was perfect for me. Basically came out of that pitstop though
and was straight into a safety car period so did about four or five laps with the safety
car and basically had a sprint race to the end. We cleared the safety car with about 10
minutes to run which is around about five or six laps of racing. So because of my position behind the
safety car, with the endurance racing, there is a really wide variety of car speed,
in particular we’ve got some purpose build GT3 racecars, the likes of Audi R8s, et cetera, obviously incredibly fast cars. On this particular track doing in the region
of about 1:35 so a good 10 seconds a lap faster than us. At the same time there’s some very
low powered Hondas which are much slower so you’re really busy sort of
looking out for fast cars that are coming up from behind you as well as the slow
cars that you are coming up to pass. So I’ll show you a quick section from
in car. So this is one of the last parts of the race
and I’m just coming up behind, you can just see it at the moment,
just trying to get past them on the left there. This is a Chevy Cruze, powered by an LS7. Got squeezed wide there so came back up
behind him. Made the interesting decision here, for those
who obviously don’t know the track it’s hard to tell, I decided to go around the
right here, got squeezed a little wide again, ran out of track and I’m going about 140,
150 K there. Fortunately managed to spin back across the
track, gather it all up, got it back into second gear coming out of the exits at the hairpin
and essentially didn’t even lose a place so I was reasonably lucky there. It’s not often you get to spin sideways
across the track and not get collected by a faster car. Coming up to the Highlands bridge here
I’d sort of re gathered everything. Coming back up behind the Chevy Cruze
and finally managed to make the pass stick that I was poorly trying to form in that
very fast left hander section. So turns out I didn’t actually learn my lesson
though, in the very next lap I also passed another car around that same spot although
this time managed to keep it on track. So it’s all a learning curve. Ultimately it was a really really fun race,
even if we didn’t quite get the results that we were potentially capable of. We ended up with a fourth in class. Although to put that in perspective,
probably not what you’re supposed to say, the were only six cars in our class. So we know that we had track pace to get
a second in class, probably don’t quite have the speed for first in class but yeah we’re
looking forward to getting back to our last round, we will unfortunately miss the
next round because we are at World Time Attack Challenge in Australia. But our last round which will be Ruapuna
in Christchurch in about four weeks time. Now one of the other things I faced when
i jumped in the car there, taking over from Ben is there was a really noticeable clunking
when I was on and off power. You don’t really notice this too much during
racing but particularly given that I was under a safety car for about four or five
laps there, really becomes obvious when you’re in and out of the power. And sort of with a mechanical mind,
understanding how the car’s put together, I pretty much concluded that it was
something to do with the diff mounting or the diff bushes. It sounded pretty bad from the driver’s seat
and I was actually a little bit worried we weren’t going to get to the end of the race. So that gives us one more thing to fix,
it looks like it has damaged the front diff bushes so we’ll probably end up solid
mounting that diff. Now just in terms of some modifications
going into the car before our next round. Obviously I’ve talked about the fact we’re
going to move that fuel pressure sensor, make sure that we’re never going to face
fuel pressure sensor issues again. I want to know that if that fuel pressure
sensor is giving us a low pressure warning, that it is real and we can deal with it
accordingly. So we’re doing that but we’re also going
to be adding a raft of new sensors to the car and i just wanted to show you through
a couple of them. So if we head to our overhead camera
over here and this is a Izze-Racing tyre pressure monitoring system. So this little unit here actually goes inside
the tyre. It is connected or attached I should say,
to the valve so that it doesn’t float around inside your tyre and the back of this here
should end up mounting basically onto the inside of the rim. Now tyre pressure monitoring systems,
not anything particularly new, although they will be new to us. This isn’t just any tyre pressure monitoring
system though. It might be a little bit hard to see on our
overhead camera here but it also includes a 16 channel infrared temperature array. So that’s this little unit here, this little
lens that we can see. And what that does is it monitors the
internal tyre carcass temperature at the same time as it’s monitoring tyre
pressure. So it sends all of that information, obviously
we’ve got four of these on the car. All of that information is sent to this
little central receiver. So we’ll have a look at that under our
overhead camera as well. So this will be mounting in the centre of
the car, equidistant from all of the wheels. It’s got the little aerial for receiving there
and the cool thing with this as well is, if we look at our wiring harness, it is only
four wires. So as with a lot of the Izze-Racing sensors,
it uses a CAN communication bus so the only wires we’ve got there are a power and
a ground CAN high and CAN low. So really really easy to connect and interface
with our existing MoTeC data package. And we’ll also be able to monitor that
information in the pits. Now for the driver, this isn’t really something
that we’re going to be looking at. It is useful during qualifying or maybe the
first lap of the race to be able to actually monitor your tyre pressures so you know
when you’ve got your tyres up to the correct pressure. But realistically under race conditions, you’re
not going to have time to look at any of that data. What we can do though is monitor this
via telemetry from the pits. So we’re going to have a technician in the
pits making sure that our tyres are doing what they should be doing. Particularly if the tyres are over pressured
this gives a heads up on that and someone can pressure the tyres during the pitstop. But more importantly probably is when
you’ve got a puncture, particularly if you’ve got a slow puncture, this may not immediately
be apparent and obviously at a high speed course that can potentially be very dangerous
as well. So we can set up our dash to give the driver
a warning if a tyre is actually going flat so that the correct course of action can
be taken there, pitting before you end up into a wall. Now at the same time we’re also fitting
some Izze-Racing tyre temperature sensors and brake temperature sensors. So again we’ll have a look at these under
the overhead camera. Pretty small little unit, again these are a
16 channel so basically they have a, I think it’s 120 degree field of view and
these can be mounted to the chassis and basically we get a pattern coming out from
those. So we want to mount them far enough away
from the tyre that they can monitor the entire tread width. Now why that’s important is because by
monitoring the tread temperature across the width of the tread,
we can use this data to help us optimise our tyre pressures as well as our camber
on the car so of course the advantage with this over a tyre pyrometer being used back
in the pits is that it gives us the opportunity to see what’s actually happening in real time
while the car is out on the track. On top of that, we’ll be mounting four of
those for tyre temperature. We’re also going to be monitoring brake
temperature with a very similar sensor from Izze-Racing. So pretty excited to get all of that data onto
the car, help us to optimise that package, hopefully gain a little bit more lap speed
out of the car and we’re going to also be using that for some other course material
for our Racecraft project, which is pretty good timing to talk about
our Racecraft project. So for those who haven’t been keeping up
with things, we have been working on a sideline project from High Performance
Academy called Racecraft. Very similar to the High Performance
Academy in terms of it’ll be online training courses, although this time we’re
basically angling towards optimising your car’s performance on the racetrack. So the first course that we have released
literally seconds ago is our motorsport wheel alignment course. So how to perform your own wheel
alignments. This course, you can find, if we actually head
across to my laptop screen, it is right there in front of you at the
moment. You can check this out at your leisure
if you go to racecrafthq.com/courses right now it’s the only course we’ve
got live but of course we have to start somewhere. So that is available for an introductory
price of USD$129 and just like our High Performance Academy courses you can
also use our payment plan, bringing it down to just over $16 a week
for eight weeks. We’ve also got our money back guarantee
on this course so if for any reason you purchase and don’t like it, no problem,
let us know, you’ll get a full refund of your purchase price. So this is incredibly cheap, particularly if
you use that payment plan. 16 bucks a week, it’s a couple of cups of
coffee or something like that a week and you’ve basically covered that. So this is going to be perfect for any
enthusiasts out there who are attending track days. And it doesn’t really matter if you’re only
doing a couple of track days a year or maybe you’re actually quite competitive,
you’ve got a dedicated racecar and you are competing most weekends. And getting lap times out of a car is
obviously the aim of the game here. And I see a lot of enthusiasts spending
thousands of dollars on performance upgrades to their engine to try and make
more power in order to get lap times down. And yeah of course that’s going to work
to a point. The problem is that it’s an expensive way
of reducing your lap times, it’s also putting a lot more stress on all of
the components of the car and the reality is if you’ve got a car that’s
handling like an absolute dog to start with, if you then go and add more power and make
the car faster, it’s only going to exaggerate those poor handling traits. So my personal preference, my opinion,
is that the best place to start when you want to lose lap time is to get your car
handling properly and you can actually be amazed at just how much you can reduce
your lap time by getting your suspension dialled in correctly and your alignment
specifications set correctly. Now most enthusiasts, when they are doing
this, they’re going to end up using the local wheel alignment specialist,
maybe at your local tyre shop to do their alignment. Now that might work out great,
particularly if you have got a factory car straight off the showroom floor. You’re probably more than capable of
doing that but the majority of wheel alignment specialists unfortunately don’t
have the knowledge to get the correct alignment specifications to actually suit
racetrack use. So in this instance, unless you’re very lucky
and you’ve got a specialist wheel alignment guy or girl who does work on
a lot of racecars, chances are you’re going to be getting sub par results. So the key really here is learning how to do
this yourself. And again most enthusiasts initially think
that this is completely out of reach. Obviously you’re not going to have 10s
of thousands of dollars sitting there to purchase your own camera based wheel
alignment equipment and four post lift to put the car on while you’re doing it. But the reality is, we can actually do this
with some really cost effective products and we show you in this course how you
can do your own wheel alignments with a DIY camber gauge. Nothing else beyond that, more than some
aluminium extrusion, some jack stands, some nylon line and a ruler. Now this probably starts to sound like it’s
all a little bit backwards and maybe backyardish and cheap. The reality is, it couldn’t be further from
the truth and if you understand the techniques of doing string wheel alignment,
you can get results every bit as good as a commercial camera based wheel alignment
system, often better. And this is the exact same technique that you
will see used in the pits at any premium motor race event. This is used right up to and including the
likes of LMP1 and Formula 1. So nothing backyardish about it. And having the ability to do this means
that with a minimal outlay you can take all of this equipment to the racetrack
with you. This is perfect if you want to try optimising
the handling characteristics of your car. Maybe you’ve got a car that isn’t quite
handling right in a particular corner and you want to actually start making
some minor changes to see if you can get an improvement. This allows you do do exactly that at
the racetrack between sessions and again all for a fairly modest outlay. In this course as well, we outlay a seven
step Racecraft process that you can apply to aligning or setting the wheel alignment
on any car. And we include a library of worked
examples, we’ve got one in there at the moment following through that seven
step process on our Racecraft Toyota 86. So huge amount of information there. Just like High Performance Academy,
purchasing that course will also give you access to our online community. Obviously it’s a bit of a ghost town right
now. As I said, this course has literally just
launched about 10 or 15 minutes ago so we’re going to be building up,
we’ve got some really exciting projects in the line for Racecraft as well as some
really exciting course material to add to that. So if you are interested, head across,
hopefully the guys can put a link in the comments that you can follow to get
involved. Now on the note of that, I’ll just mention
really quickly, our Racecraft Toyota 86, for those who watched last week, I did
mention that we’d had it back on the dyno, we were supposed to be racing that
on the weekend after our South Island Endurance Series which was Friday,
Saturday. We had the first round of the Highlands
Sprint Series which is a set of six lap races that is held on a shorter track
variation at Highlands called A&C. The idea was to run both of the cars
however once we found the diff problem with the black V8 86, we decided to pull
out of that so Ben went solo in the Racecraft 86. So that’s running the turbocharged FA20
engine. We had lent on that just a little bit harder
by putting a more freer flowing exhaust on which resulted in a little bit more
boost and we had about 394 horsepower at the wheels so probably about 15,
maybe 20 horsepower more than we’ve ever had out of that car before. Tested it during the week and it all went
pretty well however in Ben’s qualifying session, he managed to smash fourth
gear, which isn’t ideal. That’s actually the second time we’ve
damaged fourth gear in that car so obviously it’s trying to tell us
something and we are right now searching out some solutions for that,
obviously we don’t want to make any less power. Ideally we’d like to make a lot more
power so we’re going to be looking at a gearbox solution that is going to be
reliable with a bit more than 400 wheel horsepower. The options we’re looking at at the
moment, we have got an R154 box which actually came out originally,
came out of the V8 86 when we put our sequential in it. Definitely up to the task in terms of
strength but it’s a five speed box, it’s got a fairly agricultural shift
quality and the ratios are probably not really ideal. It wasn’t great behind the V8, it’s
probably not going to be a whole lot better behind the FA. The other option we’re looking at is the
T56 gearbox. So again something that’s going to be
bullet proof to the power levels we’re operating at. The real issue is, and if anyone’s got any
knowledge that we’ve overlooked, please let us know. It doesn’t seem like there’s any easy
upgrade options available for those wanting to keep the FA20 in the 86
chassis. And of course most people when they’re
really wanting to make a lot of power from these cars, they jump straight to the
top shelf, pull the factory engine out, throw it in the bin and fit either a 2JZ
turbo or an LS. We’re suckers for punishment so we’re
sticking with the FA so probably going to have to get our hands dirty with a little
bit of engineering to make up an adaptor belt housing. But that’s a different story for another day. Actually I have managed to overlook
loading up our YouTube video for today, so I will do that. While I’m doing that, we’ll mention we
are still running our JE giveaway. So if you are considering building an
engine for your project car and you’re looking for a set of pistons to go along
with that engine build, then this is going to be perfect for you. JE Pistons have teamed up with us,
they’re supplying any of their off the shelf piston kits so if you’ve got any popular
engine, there’s a pretty good chance you’re covered there. And along with the pistons, which we will
ship anywhere in the world, so it doesn’t matter where abouts you are,
we’re also going to be including our suite of engine building courses. So this will teach you what to do with those
pistons and let you put together a nice reliable engine for your project. I’ll get the team to drop a link in the
comments that you can follow if you want to get your name in the draw and on top of that,
you’ll find when you follow that link through, there are a few other tasks that
you can do that will give you more entries into the draw. Alright lastly for today, we’ll head across
to my laptop and this is a video we shot while we were in the U.K for the Goodwood
Festival of Speed. And we had the opportunity to tour
Renvale’s facility in the U.K. And Renvale, probably not a name that
a lot of enthusiasts might be familiar with, they tend to keep their head
down and a low profile but they also produce wiring harnesses for just about
every top level of motorsport you can think of. In particular they produce the wiring
harnesses for every F1 team with the exception of Williams. They also produce wiring harnesses for
LMP1, LMP2, World Rallycross, and just about anything else. So we got a chance to tour their facility
and basically go through the process of how a wiring harness is designed, is built
and then is tested in house before it’s shipped out. So if you are interested in looking at that
process, finding out what goes into motorsport wiring, then check out that
video on our YouTube channel, while you’re there, please also make sure
you subscribe. I did mention last week, we’re super stoked
as well that we have just ticked over 100,000 subscribers so thank you to all
of you who have subscribed, hopefully you are enjoying our content
because we’re looking forward to punching out a whole lot more in the
not too distant future. Alright thanks for watching team,
give me a moment and we’ll get started with today’s webinar.

14 thoughts on “Wheel Alignment Course, Race Track Shortcuts and More! | Today At HPA [UPDATE 223]”

  1. High Performance Academy says:

    The Motorsport Wheel Alignment is now LIVE, and you can view it here: http://bit.ly/MotorsportAlignment – Taz 👨🏻 #muchexcite

  2. Mr32i says:

    Will there be a course in the racecraft modules in the future regarding race car maintenance?

  3. Reuben Horner says:

    "R154 has a fairly agricultural shift quality" LOL, considering the r150 is literally installed in an old farm Hilux

  4. YENABO says:

    Awesome videos and have the knowledge and guidance us amateur drivers need to hear!
    Goodluck on the AE gbox build!

  5. Andrew says:

    Hah noob. Way to screw up a pass, Mr. Impatient (friendly bantz). You guys going to the final at Hampton Downs?

  6. zeroyon223 says:

    String alignments are awesome, I thought they were bogus once upon a time until I was shown how to do them properly… An alignment and suspension course is a great idea. It's really sad when people think a great handling car is one with the dampers set to click 4000 out of 4000, with no droop and about 4 degrees of negative camber, making for a car that just feels edgy with no compliance.
    Ha the R154 is indeed an agricultural beast of a box, especially when cold.
    Great content as per usual HPA.

  7. GordoWG1 WG1 says:

    12:35 – that is cool and new to me – internal air temperature has been around for years, but if I understand you correctly, it is able to monitor various points across the inner tread (and sidewall?) to identify localised overheating?
    14:45 – give some thought to the location you use, it's a common proble to have rubber and dirt compromise, or block, the sensers view.

    I do have a few LOTTO lines this weekend, and you keep adding to my "want" list 🙂

  8. иїѕмөғяєдк says:

    One slidey boi hey hahahaah

  9. steelmesh says:

    Hi Andre, can you share you thoughts on fuel surge tanks?

  10. 4G12 says:

    You're likely to gain more laptime from fixing your alignment and suspension settings than adding more horsepower unless your car is hopelessly underpowered.

  11. gtrgtrr33 says:

    Quaife make a gearbox up to 750 bhp with a range of gears for the fa20


  12. Nicholas Maher says:

    How about an episode showing a good once over of the GT86 V8 car you are running? It seems we've seen only bits and pieces of it.

  13. yorhomierussian says:

    sweeeeet!!!! i asked for suspension setup courses back in the day! now that my car actually needs an alignment i can definitely use this course!

  14. Bullit Pitze says:

    Did you already saw this: https://www.facebook.com/PFITZNERPERFORMANCEGEARBOXES/posts/2615023925230971 Maybe this would be something for your gearbox

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