Whirlpool/ Kenmore Electric Dryer Drive Motor Replacement #279827
Whirlpool/ Kenmore Electric Dryer Drive Motor Replacement #279827

repair clinic encourages you to
perform this procedure safely in this video we will show one or more
of these icons to alert you when to use caution as with any repair be sure you’ve unplugged
the appliance before beginning your first step is to pull out the lint
screen and removed the two screws near the
opening next insert a putty knife under the
front of the main top to release the two spring clips and rotate the top up disconnect the door switch wires and remove the top front panel screws now lift the panel up and out if your model has two front panels use a flat head screw driver to release
the lower panel from the retaining clips if applicable removed the two springs now loosen the two screws at the bottom
of the upper panel and lift the panel off depress the pulley to release the belt
tension and unthread the belt from the pulley and motor shaft now use the belt to lift out the drum disconnect the motor wire harness using a flat head screw driver remove
the two retaining clip securing the old motor using two wrenches secure at the front of
the motor shaft and unthread the blower wheel from the
rear motor shaft beware you may need to use some force pull the old motor out install the new motor by making sure the tab in the motor
support aligns with the slot in the mounting bracket rethread the blower wheel onto the motor
shaft and tighten reinstall both motor retaining clips reconnect the wire harness next replace the drum by aligning its
rim on the two rollers insert the tension pulley into the slots
in the base and loop the belt around the pulley and motor shaft in a zig zag
formation rotate the drum to help aligned the belt if your model has a solid front panel line up the drum with the front panel
seal then align the slots with the
retaining clips and press down the panel until it locks into place if your model has two panels align the
slots in the upper panel with the screws while lining up the drum tighten the screws if applicable reinstall the two springs and replace the lower panel by snapping
it into position now reinstall the two screws on top and reconnect the door switch wires rotate the main top back into place and
press down on the front to secure the spring clips install the two screws at the lint
screen opening replace the lint screen and plug the appliance back in to make
sure it’s functioning properly

96 thoughts on “Whirlpool/ Kenmore Electric Dryer Drive Motor Replacement #279827”

  1. gcdanno says:

    Great video. Only suggestion would be to also buy the blower wheel, as in my case it was frozen to the motor and was not coming off.

  2. Dave Beal says:

    Thank you for posting, I was able to diagnose and repair with a used motor i purchased for $50, a new one was $100. Took me a lot longer than you, but I got paid $12 in in change I found in the bottom of the dryer 🙂

  3. Michael Lara says:

    That was EASY! Thank you.

  4. bill josephson says:

    The electric harness to my motor was screwed onto it. When I took the screws off, the "harness" fell apart revealing copper plates that looked to connect similar colored wires – blue to blue, white to yellow. The red and the black wires had already separated so I am guessing, hoping, that they also match up when installing the new motor.

    The two clamps holding the motor were difficult to remove. I had to use a hammer and chisel.

  5. jay92889 says:

    this video saved my ass, thanks! my old lady kenmore's drum stopped spinning yet i could hear the motor buzzing. turned out to be a snapped belt! fixed it within the hour. thanks again!

  6. ex.cxflyr says:

    my blower wheel was frozen also. I did manage to get it off by attaching vise grips to the motor shaft. then I placed a pc of wood underneath where the vise grip handle touched the bottom of the dryer. I removed the blower shroud in the back. I then rotated the blower wheel back and with as much force as I could get, I struck the pc of wood(with the locked vise grips) three or four times. this eventually broke the frozen bind on the motors shaft. good luck for the next guy w/ this prob.

  7. theRealAlmostGodly says:

    just broke my blower wheel cause i didnt know it was reverse threaded…..

  8. P51ride says:

    I had to replace the blower fan after 34 years. Had to break it off in pieces and cut off the steel threaded insert with a Dremel.reinforced cutting wheel tool.. The original fan had split

  9. Kirk Turner says:

    ok, for who every makes these videos. Repair one that's ten years old, dirty, parts welded together over time. Show how easy it does not come apart.! Instead nice new clean one. That's a real video, of sweating and bleeding…lol

  10. John Chisholm says:

    Thanks, this video saved my butt!

  11. RepairClinic.com says:

    You're welcome! Congrats on a big repair!

  12. 706d says:

    You guys do some clearly stated, well lit, and professional videos. Thanks!

  13. RepairClinic.com says:

    Thanks! We appreciate the comment.

  14. James Thigpen says:

    I recently replaced the dryer motor. Now the tub spins counter clockwise, and makes a stripped gear type noise when loaded full. Is the new motor wired different than the old, and is the drum supposed to rotate counter clockwise ? It seems to me it used to spin clockwise.

  15. RepairClinic.com says:

    If the lint screen is on top like it is on this model, the drum is supposed to turn counterclockwise

  16. mas121473 says:

    Videos like this is why i love you tube!!!!!!! Awesome video!!!!!!

  17. RepairClinic.com says:


  18. EchoBock says:

    Good video and very helpful. One thing that was not clear to me after watching the video the first time was that the motor is reverse threaded.
    Instead of replacing the motor I was able to lubricate the bearings with motor oil and it rotated like new again. Not sure how long it will last but its running great right now.

  19. Tonya Fry says:

    can I change a motor in a Kenmore dryer with one from a whirlpool both electric? if not are the heating interchangeable? I have two dryers one the motor is week and the other will not heat.

  20. RepairClinic.com says:

    If you go to our website and plug in the model numbers of your dryers it will show the parts that are compatible with your dryers. If the dryers take the same motor or heating elements, you can switch them out.

  21. bull shyte says:

    Yes, absolutely. I've just spent a couple hours fighting with this and finally looked at the thread on the new motor…

  22. bull shyte says:

    Another tip if you can't get those stiff motor retaining clips back on. Or if you have trouble getting them off. Buy a big honking flat blade screwdriver with the tip at least 3/8 inch wide. Use a grinder or file to cut a wide notch into the tip with a raised "ear" on each side. This tool will now grab onto the retaining clips without slipping off, a tap with a hammer will unseat or reseat the clip onto its locking tab. And yes, video does make it look easy when dryer is not 10 years old.

  23. RepairClinic.com says:

    You might need to find a socket that will fit the nut and use a long handle ratchet wrench. Sometimes they just will not come off without breaking the wheel . You will need to hold the belt side of the motor shaft with another wrench. You need to be very careful because when the wheel does come loose your hand can slip off and get cut from the sharp metal.

  24. DJDestiny says:

    EXCELLENT video, spot on!!! I looked online and found a motor and had it overnighted, which was 1/2 the price of any local business wanted. Anyone can see from your video that the motor is reverse threaded, so that wasn't an issue. However, as you mentioned, the old motor was nearly impossible to get off. When I switched gears and used a channel lock on the rear, and 7/8's socket on the front, it broke loose fairly easy. Using a wrench on both nearly destroyed the rear blower wheel. Thanks!!!

  25. RepairClinic.com says:

    You've got this!

  26. singingbirdie2001 says:

    Thank you. This saved me tons of money.

  27. kris kanoza says:

    Right on…kudos to all who got this done!!! Yes, removing the motor was a bitch because of the WELDED connection to the blower unit. I used the biggest adjustable wrentch  in my arsenal on the pulley side and squeezed a pair of channellocks at the blower side w all my might and
     finally broke the lint weld!!! It's hard to believe what you find; change, guitar picks, small hardware embedded in an old dryer!! Got it going though with a new motor for 70 bucks. Thanks for the video and the jargon…the comments made me laff!

  28. Kurtis Kucera says:

    All I have managed to do was strip the back part…

  29. SURPLUS1212 says:

    TIP – Great video, but I had the same problem as many getting the blower fan loose.  I used the two wrenches per the video and started to round out the blower fan plastic nut.  What I ended up doing was getting a super tight wrench on the pastic nut, and turned it so it wedged against one of the drum rollers.  Then I used a socket and an impact wrench on the front of the motor.  The impact was able to jar the plastic nut loose right away..  I also had to take the bolt of of the motor mount bracket in order to remove the braket so I could slide the motor straight out away from the blower fan.  For some reason I couldn't get it slid out all the way at an angle.  Hope this helps someone.

  30. gravymatt says:

    I have the exact Kenmore mine has a hard start, like an extra grinding sound before the motor engages.Is that motor or the start switch? I made a video to show the sound, listen for the extra 2-3 seconds before the dryer starts to spin. Kenmore Dryer with a Hard Start?

  31. travis Gillispie says:

    Just as an FYI, the dryer motor and fan unit have REVERSE threads. Hold the blower motor nut REAL tight, and turn the dryer motor nut CLOCKWISE. After almost shredding the plastic nut, I watched his hands in the video again, went over to the dryer, turned the nut the correct direction, and it came apart right away.

  32. Doug Sheehy says:

    This video is awesome! It took me about :20 minutes to do this. Saved me a ton of money hiring someone.  Very easy replacement.  

  33. Jose Luna says:

    Thank you for your help.

  34. David Caskey says:

    This video is great EXCEPT YOU NEGLECTED to let people know the screw coming out of the back of the motor that goes into the plastic coupling block that everyone is breaking HAS A LEFT HAND THREAD!!!!!.

  35. straightupwv says:

    Great video.  It really helped a lot.  To all who are watching this though, don't expect the inside of your dryer to look this clean.  Also, make sure the screwdriver you use to get the clips off is pretty substantial.  The back one can be hard to get to if you're working in a small laundry room and you'll need the extra oomph, especially when you're putting it back on.

  36. Darren Evans says:

    Thank you for your instruction of the dryer motor replacement. It helped just fine.

  37. Hillary W says:

    Sweet just stripped the fan off, can you post a video on how to change a fan?  Dude at the appliance store said 1 in 3 fans won't come off without destroying it.  Maybe the vid coulda mentioned that.

  38. Gil Michelini says:

    Took me a little longer than 20 minutes–after 15 years, it was hard to get those motor clips off and the screw attachment to come loose. The line "may need a little force" is true.
    THANK YOU for a great tutorial and shipping the parts when promised. The dryer is running nice and quiet.

  39. White Hippo says:

    1:50 BEWARE:  Don't grab the rear motor shaft with pliers or something that could potentially strip it.  That thing is plastic (or at least mine was) and my dumb ass stripped the hell out of it. Its a colossal pain in the ass getting the motor out if you strip it… (SIGH)  Sorry, just venting… I'm dealing with this shit right now.

  40. Endureth says:

    So my dryer doesn't dry the clothes.  I can hear the clothes spinning inside and I know it's warming up because the clothes come out wet and hot.  Is this likely the part I need to replace?  I've already cleaned all the vents of lint and took apart the back and cleaned that as well.  Also, the vent leading out of the house has been cleaned.

  41. The1337Captain says:

    Wish I had took the time to read all the comments before stripping my fan with wrenches (just like the ones in the video) – that impact wrench suggestion is golden.  

    However, if you strip the fan plastic like I did, you can still get the fan off fairly easily by taking the back off the dryer, then taking the lint trap chute off, and then hitting the fan in the center with a hammer until it cracks in half (I only had to smack it a few times).   

    In any case, thanks for the clear (and especially concise) video. I hate it when you have to wait fifty years for the video to get to the point, and through the repair.  I don't mind pressing pause at all.

  42. Guillermo Arreola; El Pantera Negra. El Compositor says:

    hank you very much.
    This video help me a lot.
    Thumbs up.

  43. Dante Parado says:

    I stripped the plastic part entirely in the rear shaft 🙁 What to do next? How can I remove this darn motor?!!! Thanks in advance!

  44. Tony Caulder says:

    This video helped allot, but after I rounded the plastic on the first attempt to lose the shaft, I realized  if I put the front clamp band back on, that would help hold the motor  steady. After I put the front clamp back on, the motor  steady, my next attempt worked.Thank you very much for the help.

  45. Lynn Butler says:

    Great video – it really helped me on replacing the motor.  I want to thank the person who made the comment about breaking the blower wheel because I had to do that too when the back connection stripped.  Your video on replacing the blower wheel was helpful also.

  46. med8tor1 says:

    very good presentation.

  47. Mike says:

    My dryer has a different layout.  The lint screen is inside the door as opposed to the top of the unit so the blower is at the left-front of the machine.  I disassembled the dryer up to the point of taking the motor out, but I have nothing to grab on to between the motor and the blower to prevent it from turning.  At 1:50, it looks like there's a nut.  I don't have that.  Is there something I'm missing?

  48. tfcrew says:

    Sure is easy to replace a new motor there.
    Try it on my rusty junk.

  49. oomfh says:

    Yep, pointing out the likelihood of the plastic on the fan rounding-off would have been more "real world" and saved a lot of frustration.  If I had known this was a possibility I would have bought a new fan with the new motor . . . saving me a second trip across town. Video was helpful otherwise. Thx

  50. harlan almoite says:

    when I push the start button it works, but if I let go it does not work, We replace the push to start button but it still the same, I research on the internet, it says it is a problem with the motor, my dryer in Kenmore Elite with the door in front, Please helpI dont want to buy another one because I'm just renting this house. God Bless You, please Reply ASAP☺️

  51. Greg Stauffer says:

    Useful video.  Thanks.

  52. Scott Greene says:

    Very helpful. I did the job today and it worked great!

  53. terry abshire says:

    great video

  54. Liam says:

    i have a kitchenaid dryer (i know the drand is different but i noticed similar layout concept), i replaced the thermal fuse and the thermal stat, but the dryer only runs for about 5-10 mins then it stopped. then i'd have to either wait a while for it to continue to work by itself again otherwise i have to hold down the start button for it to run. im just wondering is it because of the motor or do i have to change the control board since i notice the control board is very expensive…

  55. Lowrie Beacham says:

    I have the 80 Series dryer with the lint filter down low on the left of the front.  Recently, on any setting other than Delicate, the dryer would cut off after 10 minutes or so; let it cool and it would then give me another 10.  On Delicate, it would run and finish the load. Last night I took the front apart; a fair amount of lint on the blower wheel and in the open space, but not excessive; I vacuumed out all I could see or reach.   Oh–I also explored the entire exhaust tube; it's completely free of blockage or lint.  Waiting now to run another load on "Cotton" and see if that works; is there someplace else I should look for lint?  I think the motor itself was in the back right of that opening, and if so I vacuumed it on this try.

  56. Jammy Jam says:

    I've noticed there is a plastic washer at 1:29 on the motor. I found my washer had melted off http://tiny.cc/tinyPlastic062015. Would I need to replace the motor ? The parts store guy sold me a pulley system, that I think I do not need. Any advice is appreciated . Thanks !

  57. Brian Petz says:

    The blower fan is very difficult to get off. If you are not careful, you will break it. I used some automotive penetrant (Liquid Wrench, Kroil, PB Blaster, MouseMilk, etc…) and "gently" struck the blower disc with a hammer before attempting to get it off. 

    Also, leave the front bracket on while attempting to loosen the blower from the motor to give it some stability. A wrench on the front end is useless, use a socket (should be 22mm) and ratchet. After a good amount of force, the threads will release suddenly so wear protective gloves and watch out for sharp edges. Remember, the blower fan is REVERSE THREADED.

    Don't use the socket to tighten the blower onto the new motor as the blower and pulley wheel are opposite threads and you'll end up just threading the pulley wheel off. Use the wrench or vicegrips on the shaft.

  58. Don Sherbo says:

    Awesome video! GREAT JOB! One question here. When I pulled the motor out there is an electrical connection  on the tensioner with a blue wire coming out of both ends Where do these go? You video did not show any wires connected to the motor from the tensioner bracket only one main connector to the motor

  59. Kevin VanHeulen says:

    Just changed mine out after ordering a new motor. Since I was there I changed the belt too. Cost was around 50 bucks and I did not have to borrow a truck to buy a new one. Thanks for the video. I could not have done it with the printed directions. This video was what did the trick.

  60. Ann Hill says:

    Thank you, this video really helped me especially when it came to the part of putting the belt back on.

  61. Phil Brugman says:

    I was replacing the motor on my whirlpool gas dryer but the back screw split while I was trying to unloosen it, what can I do now to remove the old motor

  62. Jeffrey Hernandez says:

    I have a whirlpool Imperial Series Clean Touch 7 cycles. The drum isn't spinning, but sounds like it's trying to spin and after a few seconds shuts off. would this mean I need to replace the belt, pulley, or motor?

  63. Eric Ofsthus says:

    Thanks for for this well made video. I was able to replace the motor in the dryer and my wife thinks I rock.
    I guess I do.

  64. How to Survive & Thrive says:

    where can I buy a new motor

  65. msford ### says:

    I have a kenmore series 70 dryer. My dryer turns on, gets hot, but the drum doesn't turn. I checked my belt, and it's not broken. Is it possible my motor isn't turning, and if so what's the best way to check it? Thank you for any help.

  66. Micah Perry says:

    Definitely worth mentioning that the thing you put the adjustable wrench on IS PLASTIC. It's the shaft of the PLASTIC fan only accessible from the back…. When I put a wrench that big on something, it usually is a little bit beefier than PLASTIC.

  67. Gabriel Perez says:

    Great video. Thank you for posting it and making the motor swap a simple task.

  68. Martin Waugh says:

    Thanks, this looks pretty straightforward and is clearly presented. Saved me a lot of money and avoided buying a new dryer for no real reason.

  69. tlmacaul says:

    If the plastic screw cracks when taking out the motor, is it okay to leave it? Where can I order a new one?

  70. tlmacaul says:

    The plastic screw at the back of the motor, the one you have to unscrew to get the motor out to replace it.

  71. Kewfit says:

    Ok I replaces everything but when I turn it on its extremely loud

  72. gundam02 says:

    excellent video! Thanks!

  73. Jayson Hurd says:

    Tried to twist off the motor from the blower as instructed and crushed the plastic blower square nut. Had to angle grind off the blower and replace it too.

  74. Tony S says:

    Replacing the rear motor mount clip is what you didn't show and that's what I needed to see.

  75. Chris Baker says:

    My dryer has a plate between the motor and the blower wheel/housing. The only way I can see to get at it is to take the blower housing off. At that, there is no nut on the pulley side of the motor. No pulley either. That's why I'm changing the motor in the first place. What do I do now?
    Ok, I found where I'd saved the motor pulley and it has the nut as one end of it. It's made out of some cheap junk pot metal and the threads are just wiped out of it.
    Second edit:
    I took the cover off the front of the blower housing and took the entire motor blower assembly out and even with my biggest pair of Vice Grips on the shaft where the pulley was supposed to be I couldn't get it loose. And yes i was turning it clockwise to loosen the left handed threads. Did I mention that the nut portion of the blower itself is plastic just as Micah Perry said but mine is inside the blower instead of behind it like they show in this video. I'm going to try WD40 and let it soak overnight while spraying more in from time to time. Gonna put some anti-seize compound on the new one's threads before I assemble it. If I run into any more problems I'll let you know. (Did I mention that I'm partially disabled and working at floor level is killing my back. So far today 40 mg of hydrocodone. Also an 800 mg Ibuprofen. Good think Hydrocodone keeps me awake.) One more thing. With the blower nut on the inside facing away from the motor I was able to put a socket on it and haven't broken it yet.

  76. Mr. DRock says:

    Thanks for the video! Had a broken dryer and now it's working!

  77. KUSH KING says:

    this is the worse brand I ever bought, washer sounds like it isn't spinning or washing cloths

  78. MrPigg11 says:

    My one wish is that all instructional videos on YouTube were this good. Great video! Replaced my motor and dryer is back to normal

  79. rararara02 says:

    whats the model of that motor?

  80. Jim Sutch says:

    This video was really helpful. I couldn't have replaced it correctly with the "instructions" that were sent with the motor.

  81. Jared Turner says:

    is the rear retaining clip supposed to a huge pain to get back on? because mine is and that is the one thing you didn't show

  82. Rob Johnson says:

    nice video. mine didnt go as easily. i mangled the rear motor mount clip, and had to completely destroy the blower fan to get it off the motor shaft. that plastic housing "nut" strips so easily, DO NOT use an adjustable wrench. DO get an open end wrench that fits exactly. 7/8" for the front shaft and 13/16" for the blower end of the shaft

    so anyhow, the video is still helpful, but unless you're swapping out a brand new motor in a brand new dryer, don't expect it to go as easily. Ok, done ranting, and I'm off to pick up a new motor, now plus a blower fan, and hopefully some new mount clips.

  83. Andy says:

    I followed along with this video and everything went as shown. Thanks for the clear instructions. The rear motor clip was tough, I used pliers to bend it a bit and it went on.

  84. Heavy Mod says:

    I want to stress that the fan does NOT come off that easily. Read all the comments below! "You may need to use some force" lol. I had to cut my fan off, which I'm glad to read is a common experience – I thought I was just doing something wrong. But it was IMPOSSIBLE to get off.

  85. Deborah Simpson says:

    The belt was ran instead of the pulley, behind that plastic restrainer, burning up the restrainer until it tore off and breaking the belt.. What to do to replace this plastic washer?

  86. Dark Aricus says:

    all motors
    have a magnet to spin

  87. LEDsignNation.com says:

    Good video. Explains everyrhing needed to change the motor. At 1:55 when it says you may need to use force he is not kidding. A few times i thoight i would strip the nut. It dis work and the reat went smooth.

  88. NotSomebody63 says:

    I used an impact wrench, electric and it worked great. 13/16 wrench on blower fan. 7/8 socket with the impact wrench~clockwise and it came right off!!! Thank you for who ever suggested this! Great video too!!! Thank you all around!!!!

  89. brown74 says:

    Thank you so much. This saved me hundreds of dollars! Your videos are very easy to follow and just the right length. I agree with some of the comments on removing the old motor. I had no problems using two vice grips to release it without it stripping, just be prepared to use some muscle. Thanks again!

  90. rossandbeth996tt says:

    Even after tearing off the blower by ripping the plastic with dremmel and pliers, I still couldn't remove the blower nut from the motor drive shaft, completely frozen, arrg!

  91. Jon Larsen says:

    You may want to mention to vacuum the dryer out and also remove the back panel and duct to clean.

  92. Chris Hodges says:

    The rear retaining clip is almost impossible to get back on. I don't what reality this video was shot in. Everything else went smoothly.

  93. Malach211 says:

    Threads are counterclockwise

  94. AkmIs says:

    take out the English text. it is covering the screen!

  95. benger88 says:

    The old motor in my dryer is attached using individual spade connectors. Is there an adapter to convert to a wire harness?

  96. srvfan42 says:

    Bit late to the party here, but is the dryer motor supposed to spin freely with Estate/Whirlpool units without power?

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