Yamaha Grizzly YFM700 Clutch Rebuild | Yamaha Grizzly Primary Clutch | Partzilla.com
Yamaha Grizzly YFM700 Clutch Rebuild | Yamaha Grizzly Primary Clutch | Partzilla.com


Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today I’m going to show you how to rebuild
the primary sheave on our 2007 Yamaha Grizzly YFM700. Not that tough to do, just need to get a couple
of panels and that cover out of the way, we’ll go to the tool table, talk about the tools
and the parts we’re going to need, and then we’ll dive into it. So let’s go. Welcome to the tool bench. This is going to be a skill level two, but
don’t let it scare you off. Let’s go over some of the tools you’re going
to need to do this. As always, a good 3/8ths inch ratchet, a couple
of extensions, a good torque wrench, a 10 and a 12 wrench. And on the socket side just a 10mm and a 22mm. You also want to pick up a 4mm Allen. On the special tools side, you’re going to
need a couple of 6mm bolts. Beyond that you’re going to need two different
types of clutch holders. They’ve got a basket-type holder, and then
an outer holder. So you’re going to need both of those to pull
this off. Now, if you would, reference our exploded
parts diagrams. That’s going to give you a very clear picture
of how this is going to come apart, and more importantly how it’s going to go back together. So, once you have your tools and your parts,
we can go over to the machine and I can walk you through it. Not much to it to start with, guys. just need to get this footwell out of the
way. It’s just a 4mm Allen, and a 10mm wrench will
do it. Yeah, looks like this is looking a little
rough. It’s got a couple of cracks in it, so I think
I’m going to get another one of these ordered. Next, I want to remove this upper panel so
I can access the bolts that are holding on the top of the cover. Alright, let’s remove all these 10mm bolts
to get the cover off more easily, I’m going to actually loosen up this brake cable so
it’ll have enough travel to go down and get that cover off. That should do. There we go. What I’m looking for here, this actual surface
on the primary sheave up front. I don’t want to see any grooves in it. The belt? I want it to have a nice dull look. I don’t want it to be shiny. Because if it’s shiny, that means it’s been
slipping. Some of the things that you want to be looking
for that would have caused you to come in here is you go to accelerate and the unit’s
real jerky or it just really doesn’t engage very quickly. That’s usually an indicator that you’ve got
a problem with your primary or your secondary sheaves. Now we’re going to go a little bit further. We’re going to pull off this bearing carrier. Alright, let’s go ahead and loosen up the
secondary sheave just to make it easier to deal with. You do that with just a couple of extra 10mm
bolts with a 6mm thread. Want to make sure they’re fairly long, when
you run those in it’s going to open the sheave up, and what we’re about to do here in a second
is take off this large bolt at the end of the primary sheave. When we do that, it’s actually just going
to pull off and you’ll see an inner bearing and then the inner part of the sheave as well. Alright, this is a 22mm. Now, just that outer bolt, washer, and this
whole assembly will come off. This is the part we’re concerned with. This, we’ll just leave it in place. Looking at the sheave surface, it’s actually
in good shape on the inner. The outer has a little bit of wear, you can
see it, but I cannot feel it so it’s good to go. So what we’re going to do is take this over
to the teardown bench, inspect our hub and those sliders that it rides on, replace those
if necessary, re-grease it, and put it back together. Alright, you’ll notice that I’ve got an impact
with a Phillips in it with a hammer because I have found sometimes these can be a little
tough to pop loose. This one doesn’t seem to be that bad. But honestly, with an impact, isn’t that so
much simpler? What happens, especially if you sink one of
these and you get water and mud inside this enclosure, well, it doesn’t play well with
the other moving parts. It’ll try to lurch forward or it doesn’t want
to engage at all. Chances are, you need to open this up and
take a peek inside because it’s probably going to be sludge in there. I have opened them up before where it was
like clay. It took a lot of centrifugal force to actually
break those weights loose, and that doesn’t make for very smooth acceleration. Alright, when you remove this outer section,
it should be an O-ring that you kind of have to fight to get past. But keep in mind that this metal isn’t super
think and you don’t want to damage it prying it off. Just walking it around. There we go. There’s that O-ring I was talking about, and
all that grease that it’s been packed with. Like I said this one’s in not that bad a shape. That’s about he consistency you’re looking
for. But we’re in here, we’re going to go ahead
and take it all the way apart, we’re going to clean it up, probably going to replace
most of the moving parts inside. So, let’s go ahead and lift out that center
section, see the sliders all the way around. And then down inside this cavity you’ve got
eight weights. They make different weights depending on how
you want the sheave to engage. Now I’ve reordered a set but I just went back
to the factory, but if you’re looking for a little bit of change in your acceleration
curve? That’s when you start changing out your weights. Alright, with all that removed, we’re going
to go over to the parts washer, get these cleaned up, take a close look at them. Very important that you get these really cleaned
up well. Because the last thing we want is any of that
grease in the cleaning solution that I was using to get over on the belt side. Now, I’ll be re-using the inner and outer
sheaves. If one or both of them are worn you’d want
to replace them as a set. Before you put it together, you want to get
a scotch wipe pad and just rough up the surface just a little bit. We just want to knock off any type of smoothness
so it’ll bite into that new belt. Like I said, this one looks good. Usually if it’s really worn out where these
sliders are riding, you’ll see grooves in these outer protrusions that come out. This one’s in good shape. The grease that you want to use for this,
Yamalube makes it. It’s actually called ultramatic grease. And in the manual, they say put 90 grams on
each one of the weights. But the way I do it is to put maybe an eighth
to a quarter inch of grease on the weight itself around the outer surface. And that’s always worked for me before. Just drop them in. They do not care which direction you put them
in. Alright, next let’s coat down the surface
where the sliders are going to ride. Only four of those. Since we’re still making a mess, let’s go
on the inside of the sheave itself. Now, let’s lake the sliders, install them
on the cam. And we want the red side facing up. Let’s go ahead and put a little directly onto
the sliders. With all that together, let’s go ahead and
put our cam in place. Let’s get our O-ring, and it just goes to
that first edge right there. Just to make sure it makes it over, just a
light just to the inside edge of the stopper. Now let’s push her back down. Make sure we didn’t pinch that O-ring anywhere
and we’re good. Yeah that O-ring isn’t trying to keep dirt
out, it’s trying to keep grease in. Because when this thing’s flying around, at
the RPMs it’s gong to be turning, it would actually force grease out that edge and then
make a big mess. Not that I’ve ever seen that happen before. Alright, let’s get all of our Phillips back
in. Alright guys, let’s go over and put it back
together. Alright, and that’s definitely where it’s
supposed to be, because if it’s sitting in there flush, a little bit of the splines should
be protruding out maybe an eighth of an inch. And that’s what we have. Now, we tale that washer I was talking about,
then put on our outer bolt. Alright, at this point, we’re going to get
a holder to hold our primary and we’re gonna take it to 100 foot-pounds. To have any chance of holding this still,
I went up on top of the outer section of the primary sheave and I’m just using a pry bar
just to hold this still so I can put the 100 pounds on it. There it is. Now, let’s get the out of the way, get the
belt on. While we’re doing this, we want to make sure
our arrows are going to the front, and they are. Bring it in and just walk it over. Now, let’s release those two tension bolts. There we go. Alright, that’s as far out as she wants to
go. Let’s get a little grease on the end of this
shaft and then into the inside of the bearing carrier. Then we’re going to get it bolted in place. There are two dowels that are across from
each other. There’s one to the top right and bottom left. Make sure those are still either A, in the
carrier, or on the machine itself. And there are two different bolt lengths. So the long ones go here and here. These two are the short ones. What’s our magic torque number? Seven. Make sure our seal’s still in there. It is. I don’t see any cracks in it so I think we’re
good to go there. All of these bolts are the same length. Alright, cover’s in place, let’s go ahead
and get the rear brake adjusted back to where it needs to be. Then we’re down to just some plastics. I went ahead and ordered a new footwell for
it. If you get a little bit confused, just reference
back to our diagrams. It’s going to show you exactly how to get
it back together and what goes where. Alright guys, we’ve got all the plastics back
in place, the only thing I need to do is refill the oil. We actually have a video on doing an oil change
service on this machine, so if you need a little help why don’t you go reference that
one. Well alright guys, that wraps this project
up. Well listen, if you need any parts for your
machine, why don’t you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of. Have any questions or comments? Leave them in the section below and I’ll do
my best to answer them. If you like what you see, why don’t you hit
that subscribe button. We just want to say thank you for shopping
with us at Partzilla, and we will see you in the next video. Have a great day.

16 thoughts on “Yamaha Grizzly YFM700 Clutch Rebuild | Yamaha Grizzly Primary Clutch | Partzilla.com”

  1. Riley Walker says:

    First, Haha love yall's videos

  2. Vartan Kuchinskiy says:

    professional!

  3. fwflyer78 says:

    Another good one John! Thanks!

  4. Adam Day says:

    You can loosen your secondary with the bolts you removed from your clutch housing

  5. fightmeirl says:

    nice spin of satisfaction at 8:42 lol

  6. Mohsen Kiae says:

    ASMR Mechanic :))) Great work John !

  7. Eli Banks says:

    I’m wondering why my kodiak 450 is extremely sluggish taking off and only reaches speeds of 20mph. Could this be the culprit?

  8. David Traurig says:

    When are you going to do some videos on some of the older machines. 2003 to 2006 suzuki and polaris.

  9. Suebob 52 says:

    Super good video great job. thanks

  10. Garrett Bass says:

    If I have groves wore in my sheve does it need to be replaced

  11. buletpoint says:

    Yes great video thank you

  12. Shaun Coulter says:

    What was the torque spec on the bearing cage bolts?

  13. Marvin Schofield says:

    Great video! Wondering if this could be the issue with a noise in mine when engine is decelorating?

  14. declan moran says:

    Cool glasses ! 👍😁

  15. Alan Roberson says:

    My 06 kodiak with irs is not allowing the cvt to spread and rise the belt reaching a max speed of about 10 mph and it will let the rpms go to it hit the rev limiter but if in neutral the primary and secondary wrong as if nothing is wrong what do you possibly think it is or where do I start

  16. Chris Beasley says:

    How do you keep your weights from falling out while re installing

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