Yamaha R6 Engine Rebuild Part 2: 636 Kit Piston Install to Head Install | Partzilla.com


Hello, if you’re just joining us, this is
the second segment of our 2008 Yamaha R6 build. In this particular video, we’re going to show
you how to do the piston install, all the way up to the head install. Now, if you need a refresher, if you would
check the description link in the section below and you can go back and review what
we’ve already done. so, once you’re up to speed and you’re ready
to install the pistons, we can get started. Alright guys now that we’ve rearranged, let’s
go ahead and start building up our connecting rods with our new pistons. The Wiseco kit actually comes with new wrist
pin, new wrist pin retainers. So all we have to keep up with is the direction
that they’re coming off. This, where it says “Y1,” needs to go to the
magneto side of the crankshaft. So we just took that apart, this was number
four, it was sitting here like this. That little dot indicates of course with the
larger cutouts for the valves being on this side. The smaller ones where the dot is indicates
where the exhaust valves are. So, looking at our new Wiseco pistons, it’s
going to orient like this. That’s how it’s going to go back together. So, go ahead and get one end of our circlip
in. Alright, when you’re putting in these rings,
it’s important that you either let the gap go up or straight down. And you want to bend them just as little as
possible because they are kind of small, and if you bend them too much when you’re putting
them in they won’t have enough tension to really to into their groove and hold their
wrist pin in there like they should. We want to start by putting that first end
in, and then just working around with your thumb very gently. Try to give it a wiggle on either end just
tot make sure that she’s in there. Oil up the wrist pin, get it started. the crankshaft is sitting this way, you want
the “Y”to be going out so it’ll go like this. Now all I have to do is get another retention
clip on this other end. There. One down, three to go. Before we actually put the rings on the pistons,
I want to go ahead and check the ring gap. What you want to do is put your ring in then
use a piston upside down to push down in the bore about an inch. Alright, we’ve got our top ring in and what
we’re looking for is around a range from point two-five to point three-five millimeters. Alright, let’s go to .27 and see it it’ll
scoot in there, and it will. Point three, just barely. So that top ring looks good. Next, let’s pop in a second ring. Use a piston, go ahead and push it down. And according to Yamaha, they want to see
in between .7 and .8 mm of clearance, but Wiseco wants you to run it a little bit tighter. They want to see somewhere in between .4 and
.5. Here’s a .4, and .5 won’t quite go. .45, so she’s dead on. So basically that’s the process. You need to keep your rings in the right cylinder
location. 1-4. And one other note: when you’re filing these,
you want to do it completely perpendicular to the ring itself. So don’t do it at an angle like this or like
this. You want to do it on a flat surface. and when you get it filed down enough, you
want to take off those edges like this. So, I’m going to go through each cylinder,
the corresponding rings, and do this same check for the top and the bottom ring. Alright, let’s talk about ring placement on
the piston itself. So what we’re looking for is your top ring
and your second ring to be 180 degrees out. I typically put the top ring toward the exhaust. Your second ring is going to go right here. Your third ring is actually made up of three
different rings. You’ve got the oil ring, then you’ve got the
bottom and the top retainer. The oil ring, I usually follow it back down
180 out from the second ring and then I put the retentions about 45 degrees about 45 degrees
off axis from each end. So, that being said, let’s prep the rings
and get them ready to go on. The only real prep you have to do is just
take and put a light coat of oil just with your fingers on the top and the bottom all
the way around. The oil ring doesn’t need any. As far as getting the rings on the piston.
the bottom ring is not that difficult. You can actually what I call spiral it on
there. the one thing you want to be sure of is that
the ends of the rings actually butt together, which they do. Alright, next put on your first retention
ring, and yes you can spiral it on as well. You want to go ahead and do the bottom one
first. Go about 45 degrees out and walk it around. Like that. Next, you want to put this second retention
ring on, 45 degrees out, get it into the top section. That gets the oil ring in place. Next, the second ring. We want to go 180 degrees out from that one. We’ll go like this. Now these, you don’t want to spiral on. You don’t want to twist it in any way. You want to use a set of ring pliers. And with this one it’s actually marked. It has a little “N”and that indicates the
up. You want to open this just enough to get it
over the piston. you do not want to stretch it. Like that. Then, 180, get on our top ring. Now, I just need to do that four more times. Alright guys before we put this together let’s
talk about bearing sizing. If you did have to replace a connector rod
or if you were replacing your crank because it was damaged, then you would have to size
your bearings from scratch. First thing you want to note is the number
that is stamped on the end of your crankshaft. So you want to write that down. With that information, when you’re sizing
just your connector rod bearings, it’s the last four numbers that we read off, which
was 1-2-2-1 on my crankshaft. So what you would do is look on the ends of
each one of your connector rods and there’s going to be a number. In my case it’s 5-H.
5H, 5H, 5H. So, they’re all the same. so it’s going to be five minus one, gives
you a four, which is a green. So the next number, be it a five minus two,
which would be three, which would give you a brown. As far as the sizing for the mains, you want
to look on the backside of your engine on the lower half of the crankcase and there
can be as little as one number right here. Mine happens to be a five. What that tells me is it’s the same across
the board. All these different journal locations are
a five. So, we compare that over to our crank which
has a two. So, for each one of these it’s going to be
the same bearing so it’s going to be five minus the two, minus another one, so that
gives you in my case it gives me a two, which according to the chart signifies a black bearing. Alright, now that we know what size bearings
to go in, we need to replace the nut and connector rod bolt on each one because those are one-time
use only. Start with number one. Just a few taps and then it goes in. Alright, let’s get a piston put in. Alright, our ring compressor is on there. Let’s get a little bit of oil down into the
bore. Looking at the top of your piston, see the
cutouts, plus you can see the arrow that needs to go to the exhaust. We want to get them in there maybe an inch
or so down or just where they’re into the bore. And that’s as far as they really need to go. Alright, so we’ve got our pistons in, and
we’ve got our engine flipped back over upside down so what we’re going to do next is go
ahead and lay in our bearings. Be very careful tapping these in place. You want them even. Use some of this assembly lube. Put it on each one of the bearings. It doesn’t take a lot. And then we’re going to place the crankshaft
and then go ahead and do the connecting rod bearings. Let’s start with number one. Make sure we line up our marking on the side. Where I said that 5-H.
This is a two stage tightening sequence. The first stage we’re going to use a torque
wrench to take them to 11 foot-pounds. Second stage we’re going to use an angle meter
and take it between 175 and 185 degrees. Alright, I only have to do that four more
times. Next, let’s go ahead and get what they call
the drive axle put in place. And when you’re setting it in, go ahead and
replace this outer seal. and that slides on. Get your shift forks lined up. There we go. Alright, so let’s get our dowels in place. This one here, here, and then back over here. Alright, I do want to put a little dab of
assembly lube on each one of these journals. Let’s go ahead and hang our timing chain in
place. And so what we’re going to do next is go ahead
and lay some adhesive and I think we can get the bottom end bolted back together. It doesn’t take a lot, just a little thin
layer or bead rather. You want to make very sure you don’t put too
much, especially though here because that’s an oil channel and you do not want to stop
it up. We can go ahead and set her in place. Alright, well she is down. Let’s start putting our bolts in. Most of them I’m going to reuse, the ones
that I am going to replace are the ones that follow the crankshaft itself. so just put a little bit of oil on your threads
and drop them in. We’re going to just put them all down just
finger tight to begin with. We get them all in place and then there’s
a tightening sequence that we have to go through. Fortunately, Yamaha has embossed all of the
bolts with a number that indicates the sequence as to how they’re tightened down. Alright, these funky looking ones like here
with the shoulders, those actually go where the dowels are. Alright guys, About to start the tightening
sequence. We’re going to start with these 12mm bolts
that go in line with the crankshaft. Alright the first time we go through, we take
all of these to 14 foot-pounds. The next sequence we actually loosen them
up one at a time and then bring it back to 8.9. After that point we go through the third stage
which is actually to take them to in between 45 and 55 degrees, then you go back and go
through the same sequence again and take it another 75 to 85 degrees. Alright, those other two 12mm over here, on
the output shaft, you just take each one to 17 foot-pounds. Now for the remainder, all those 10mm head
bolts. those get a whopping 7.2. Alright, 28 is actually part of the oil pump,
so we’re going to skip over it, go to number 29. Now, well, she is torqued all the way down. Let’s rotate it up a little bit, put it at
an angle. Washer, washer, holes out, collar. Then get our bearing in there. Let’s get our clutch basket back in. Take our oil pump, our chain over there. There’s a guide that this chain has to ride
in. Alright, see I missed, so I slid out the clutch
basket just a tick. Let’s see if we can’t get that chain to come
around and get in the groove. Yep, now we’re in there. Alright, with that done, we can slide it over
into position. And here’s where you put in the dowels. Our elusive number 28. Don’t forget your oil pipe. Take them to that magical 7 foot-pounds. Alright, a little bit of Loctite on these
two Allens. And our pickup. Gasket in place, and let’s go ahead and get
that oil pan on. Just a bunch of 5mm Allens all the way around
the perimeter. Don’t forget that one in the center section
there. Alright, that’s feeling pretty good guys. Let’s bring that “T” back around one more
time. Alright, that should be top-dead-center. Just where the cases, where the halves meet
and that “T”and that line should be going dead into it. Alright, let’s go ahead and get our chain
guides in place. Let’s go ahead and get our dowels in. Do one last check and make sure all your surfaces
are clean. Now let’s get out our head gasket. And if you did do a 636 kit, do not use the
stock gasket because it’s not big enough. So Wiseco will sell you the correct one. One last check of the head, don’t let your
tappets fall out. Everything looks good. Let’s close her up. Alright, let’s get some bolts on there and
get her torqued down.

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