Yamaha Raptor 700R Engine Build Part 1: Bottom End Build | Partzilla.com
Yamaha Raptor 700R Engine Build Part 1: Bottom End Build | Partzilla.com

Hello, John Talley here with
partzilla.com and welcome to the first video of a series that’s going to show
you how to completely assemble a 2017 Yamaha Raptor 700R engine. Starts off
with just the engine cases, the bearings. We’re gonna carry this video a little
bit further by putting in the transmission, the shift forks, the
counterbalancer and most importantly the crankshaft. Now as far as
the parts list goes, why don’t you reference that description below. It’s
going to take you directly to all the parts that we used for this particular
segment of video. Now the tools? Well, you’re going to need your entire toolbox.
But first, let’s also go look at the special tools that you’re going to need
to pull this off. First is a good bearing driver set. I prefer one made out of
aluminum, less chance of marring up anything inside of the engine. The other
one that is critically important is going to be something to pull your
crankshaft into the case half. The one I prefer is one made by MotionPro. It
works on several different makes and models. Now if you’re going to do this on
a different machine, might want to check with MotionPro first to make sure it’ll
fit that application. So once you’ve got your special tools together and already
gathered your parts we can get this started.
So let’s go. Now now everything came in it’s nice
little packages and it seems to be clean but that’s not always the case. So before
we even get started we’re gonna clean up the cases with some contact cleaner. Now
when Yamaha manufactures these– when they come out of the castings and they go
through the finish process– they do a really good job of getting them clean.
There’s still that chance you’re gonna have some residual left so we want every
surface to be as clean as we can get it because if there’s any dirt or rust or
anything else and guess what? That’s just gonna get mixed in with your brand-new
engine parts. Look at that. I don’t want that flying around in my engine so
that’s why we’re doing this now. I know this is a bit of a daunting task but the
way I usually approach it, lay it out and then just place everything where it
should go. I’ve got the the main bearing that’s going to go in this side of the
case in the freezer at the moment. If you’re not going to use that technique
and you are gonna press it in don’t just set your cases up and push against this
outer edge. If you look it gets really thin here in here and if you’re trying
to press in that much surface into this area– I mean it’s not designed to take
that kind of stress if you pushed on it with it being flat. If you are gonna push
it in make sure that you put something that goes against this center section
right here. And in most cases you’re replacing a bearing, use your old bearing.
Put it on the back side. Another thing that would recommend, cut out a just a
four inch piece of plywood. Place it there, then lay it on the press and press
in the bearing. We’re gonna have this as a backup because I’ve tried this
technique before. Most of the time it works if you have your engine cases hot
enough and if your bearing is cold enough it’ll just drop straight in. I
have had them where they went halfway and just kind of stopped and then I had
to press them the rest of the way so I’m gonna go grab a torch we’re gonna heat
this up as evenly as we can to get it around that 200 to 300 degree range. If
you do want to use your oven instead of doing it this way set it to around 275,
set it in there for about 20 minutes, and that should do it. She’s hovering around
in between 180 and 200. I’m gonna grab that bearing see she drops in. I was so close.
Made it about half way so we’re gonna head over to the press and finish it off.
Keep in mind this whole case is extremely warm at the moment, so make
sure you got gloves on if you attempted to do it that way. I almost had it.
Looks like it went in just a little cockeyed when I dropped it and as soon
as I did it locked it down. But that’s alright we’ll just press it in the rest
of the way. Now whatever driver that you’re using,
make sure it reaches out to that outer race. There we go.
Was getting worried. All right, she’s in. Let’s take a look at it but I think
we’re okay. That was the most challenging bearing to get in. Now we can go ahead
and get a clean cloth over there and just lay it flat inside the press. Make
sure we’ve got it in a surface area because I don’t want to stress the cases
anywhere as we’re pressing these in. Once again make sure you’re only pushing on
the outside of the race. Not nearly as much stress putting in these smaller
bearings. As you’re doing this just make sure you pick out the right size
driver for each bearing. Next, get in our to counter balance
bearings. And they’re both identical. Okay, we got one side out of the way, let’s
head over to the other one. This one’s a little bit different. We actually have a
couple of passageways that we need to be sealed off against and you’ll notice
that the bearings of course for a different part number where it has the
sealed side. And that’s going to need to go facing out. It’ll look the same but
you want to make sure these bearings didn’t mistakenly get put on
that side. Now this this first counterbalancer– or the one in this in
the back– it actually has a transmission or a lower case breather tube that comes
out up top. It has to be sealed away as well and that is what this seal is for.
So don’t forget to put this seal in, otherwise you’re just going to be
pumping oil straight out of that vent. So let’s start with the output shaft
bearing first. We’re gonna use our wood again. Now let’s go press it down. Next,
let’s go for that intermediate. The trick here we need this edge to be right here.
So now we got to bring all of that over here. Seal down, there we go. Okay, we’ve
got the first two in then we got two left and this one here, do not forget to
put in this seal. That should do it. Now let’s go get the bearing pressed in. That looks good.
Let’s go ahead and get that last one in. That should do it. So we’ve got all the
bearings pressed in, minus the crankshaft. Let’s go ahead and get the retainers
that are going to be at the output bearing, and then there’s another one
over on this side for that a secondary gear shaft. We’ll start over here. Lay the
keepers in place what you have are a couple of T30 bolts. It’s important that
you put a little bit of Loctite on them because you would not want these
to come apart or to come out inside of the cases. It would not end well. Every
thread of this size is going to have the same torque or close to it:
7.2 foot-pounds. We’re gonna set it to eight. And the same thing for these and you
want to make sure this little stamp that says out– make sure that’s facing towards
you. The same torque as the other. Now we want to go back and just use a
punch and put a stake mark on both of these bolts. You want to put it right at
the edge of the bolt in the retainer. So we’ve got one more bearing to pull in,
and that’s going to be the crank, So it’s been in the freezer for a while. Let me
go pick it up, bring it over and we’ll get it pulled in. I’d actually sprayed it
down with silicone to keep it from rusting because as you can see when it
comes out the humidity where I live, it just attacks it. So let’s start off
attaching a bolt and actually the one I’m using is the same thread and pitch
is the one they used on the swing arm. I just ordered an extra one, ground it down
to where it actually fits inside of this adaptor. But the real trick here is on
this side of the case there’s not a flat surface for this piece
to actually sit in there to pull. So what we’re having to do is just pass the
crank up through. Just use steel plate. We put that adapter on it and then crank it
into position. No pun intended. Now if you didn’t have a steel plate
this size you could always go to just a couple of pieces of angle iron. Just
something stout enough to go across. A little bit of heat goes a long way. Just
make sure you don’t get it too hot and damage the seal that’s in there. Remember?
For the counterbalancer? Make sure that the bearing is pulled all the way up
into the casing. And it looks like we’ve got it. So what I’m going to do next is
release the puller, and if you’re unsure whether or not yours is all the way down,
get a feeler gauge and the smallest one that you have and make sure that you
cannot get it in between the case and the bearing surface. As you can see they
are flush up next to each other and that’s what we want.
Gonna coat it back down, set it to the side, and then we’re gonna build up those
transmission pieces. Well let me go get all the parts for the transmission and
we’ll lay those out and start assembling the gears on the different shafts. Starts
with the primary drive axle, and then what we’re gonna do is lay out each gear
and snap ring and retainer and everything in order before we start
putting it together. I want to get everything cleaned up, so we’re gonna go
piece by piece. Use a little contact cleaner, get it cleaned up, then we’ll
break out the oil can and start putting it together. I think of that mess coming
off. This is why this is important. So we’ve got everything cleaned up and
ready to go. We’re gonna start with the the main axle assembly and all of our
pinion gears. So I believe it’s five, three, four, and two. Everything’s in order.
So let’s start putting them together. As you’re doing this, oil up everything as
you’re going along. Now if you know that it’s going to be a while before
your engine is going to get used, I’d probably recommend using some type of
assembly lube instead of just oil. Then our spline washer, then I circlip. It’s
going to be pushing out, so we want the sharp side going toward the thrust. And
just spread this enough to get it over. You don’t want to hyperextend your
circlip. One down, several to go. Each gear that you put on, spin it make sure it’s
free and there’s no burrs anywhere. This feels good so let’s go on to the next.
Bit more oil. This is the fourth gear pinion. And as you can tell, it has to
move either side on the shaft and it’s just held in place by those two circlips
we just installed. What will actually be limiting its travel as that’s where
the shift fork is going to grab it right here. So it’ll be shifted back and forth
right there. Next we have another spline washer. And
this spline collar, then the gear. So that was the third wheel and the next part is
going to be this locking claw. And actually this piece goes in and then it
is turned just a half a tooth and then this part that locks it goes in and that
right there will lock it in place. See I can’t pull it off now. A neat
little setup they have there. Then one more gear to go on this one. A little bit
more oil. One final circlip. Now let’s tackle the
output shaft. So let’s gonna get our collar oiled up and start installing
some gears. Splined washer, and this particular shaft
use a little bit different snap rings but you still want to look for that
sharp edge. As you’re putting these on, resist the temptation just to drive it
down cuz that’s gonna score up your splines. So make sure you’ve got it lifted
off the shaft as you’re pushing it down. It takes a little time, but it’ll go.
Alright, next gear. Another circlip, sharp edge facing down on this one. A washer. This
collar. Now we have another one of those claw type scenarios. Drop this one down,
rotate it by half a tooth, and then this one will lock it in place. Next gear. This
section is a little bit more raised than the back side. We want that to go inward.
Another collar. Let’s add a little bit more oil in
between those two. Now the washer and another circlip. Starting to see a repeating theme here. It’s kind of hard to believe all this
stuff flies around it fast as it does instead of an engine. It actually works. One more washer and then one last
circlip. So with that done, let’s go grab the engine cases our shift forks and the
shift drum and start getting this thing put back together – we can close at the
bottom end. Before we install this, I want to go and install the reversed shift
detent or lever because I’d hate to have it fall out if I tried to do this
afterwards. So we’re at least going to get it, its washer, get the bearing in
there. Then we have one more washer on the outside and then just a c-clip to
get it held in place. Set that up for a minute, going get the seal pushed in. Not
much to it. Do it with your thumb. Don’t forget that washer. Pass it through, get that
second washer. Then we just need to slide on this other c-clip. There we go. Alright
with that in place let’s go ahead and put a little bit more oil on our
bearings, especially the ones that are in the blind parts of the casing because
there’s gonna be critical for those to have some oil on startup. Now let’s go
ahead and carry our primary and output shafts, matched up like this, bring them
into position. Like that. Now we want to take our shift
forks and we’ll start with the L and that’s going to be over on the output
shaft and it’s gonna be almost down at the bottom. You can see where it engages.
Now when you do this, don’t insert it into the case. Just put it off to the
side and we want the actual gear, that that surrounded area, to hold it in place.
Next we’re gonna take our second set of shift forks and do the same thing. Go
ahead and start with the top one then bring down that C and then once again
just shift it off to the side. Now we can take the shift drum, have your pin in
this general area which should be first and/or neutral,
drop it in. What we can do is lift up the various gears to where you can get get
it to align into the drum like that. Now we can push the pins in. So we’ve got
that one done. Now this one’s a little bit more tricky because you’re messing
with two at the same time. So let’s bring out the bottom one first. Grab that top
one and get it in position. There you go. swing it around and push the pin in. Got
it. There’s neutral. Next, let’s get the
reverse shaft in. The way I do this take off the circlip temporarily on
first gear. Where’s that second? That’s second actually. Pop it off. Now, when
you’re dropping this in want to make sure that this edge lines up with the
protrusion down inside the casing. And you should not be able to turn this
once it’s in position. Now we can put our gear back on. Another way to tell
that you’ve got the reverse shaft in there correctly is these two gears are
going to be even with each other. If it were not all the way down in there, this
will be sticking up. You could get it to
install but it would be riding a little bit high and you could probably get the
cases together. But when you did, it would not mesh very well and it’ll probably
end up cracking the cases. So just make very sure it’s in that indentation
before you get ready to close everything up. Now counterbalancers. Just drop
straight in. They’re completely different as far as their diameter so there’s no
mixing them up. Alright we’re getting very close to being ready to seal the
cases together, but there’s a couple more pieces that have to be installed. One,
this pickup screen and there actually is no gasket or anything. It just lays in
there and then it has a couple of eight millimeter head bolts. But if it’s inside
the block, nothing wrong with a little Loctite. Because I would hate for any of
this to come apart and start flying around. The other critical part is this
little dowel and this o-ring that goes dead center, it’s an oil pass-through
from one side of the case to the other. So don’t forget that, otherwise you are
going to have some severe lubrication issues or the lack thereof. At this point
we can go ahead and put in our dowels and from the factory they only send
these two smaller ones. They actually go here and here.
now if you’ve really hopped up your engine and you want a little bit more
support for the block or the cases, the the same dowels that are used the base
of the cylinder? Well they happen to be the same diameter as these two points
right here. So if you want to make sure that your cases don’t shift anywhere you
can get those ordered a couple extra bucks. A little bit of peace of mind. Now
with that being said we want to wipe down these surfaces one more time
because just a little bit of oil it’s going to keep that Yamabond from
really doing its job and sealing up the crank cases as they should be. So we’ve
got this case ready to go, everything’s cleaned up. This is the last chance you
have to check things over. Just run through it one more time. Make sure you
don’t miss anything. So start spreading some Yamabond four. What I usually do is just lay a fairly thin bead and then we’re going to
go back and smear it around. And you don’t want to put too much because
whatever you see squished out on the outside well probably that same amount
went on the inside and we don’t want this stuff flying around our cases. I
said just want a nice thin layer. It’s not gonna take much. Now carefully, and
don’t put too much on there, go ahead and oil your bearings on this side. Alright,
think I’ve got us ready to go. Now one thing I want to point out before we
close her up. I have the shift drum positioned to where I can engage that
reverse claw because I want it held still– not for right now but when we get
the cases closed up one of the first bolts that we have to
put through is for the the shift drum. And that takes 22 foot-pounds and I
wouldn’t want to stress the transmission with that kind of torque without holding
it somehow, and that’s a great way to do it with that a reverse claw down at the
bottom. So that being said let’s get it put together. Alright she’s down. Now let’s put some
bolts in. There’s three on this side, there’s one, two, and then there’s one
hidden right here. And that one we want to get some Loctite on. If you don’t have
them laid out in the exact order that they’re gonna go in, each bolt is going
to be sticking up approximately that far. any more any less you’ve got the wrong
bolt in the wrong hole. This one we’ve got a little bit of a red loctite.
We’re good one and drop it in. It’s always the same answer on the torque: 7.2
pounds. I typically take them to eight. We will do this is we’ll run them all in
just with a small quarter inch ratchet. Then we’ll come back and go more or less
in sequence all the way around and torque them all down evenly. If you do it
like this, make sure you’re not holding the
extension because that would skew the torque. And guys that pretty much wraps
up the bottom end. What I’m going to do next is actually mount it to an engine
stand to go to the next stage of the build, and that way you’ve got 360 degree
access of me finishing up this engine. So if you need it, there it is. If you
have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and we will do
our best to answer them. Listen if you need any parts for your machine come see
us at Partzilla.com. Want to watch what happens next on this engine? Follow us
over to the next video. That being said, thank you and have a great day.

18 thoughts on “Yamaha Raptor 700R Engine Build Part 1: Bottom End Build | Partzilla.com”

  1. Robert Weston says:

    YESSSS HE'S BACK!!!!!!

  2. noushad p says:

    Good job sir

  3. LiveFreeOrRIP says:

    Clapptor Rebuild!!!

  4. songer121 says:

    Im such a gear head i dont even have a raptor and watched every minute lol. I love the quality in these videos as well!!!

  5. mothridith says:

    If you heat the cases in the oven or grill to 250 degrees Fahrenheit and freeze the bearings they drop right in

  6. mike brown says:

    Nice to see your still helping us are you going to be doing any moor work on that gsxr

  7. Vartan Kuchinskiy says:

    Nice to see professional work! Respect

  8. 70 SportsRoof says:

    Thank You for posting this! I was planning on having my 07 raptor rebuilt this summer, but was hesitant to do it myself. After watching this video, I might give a crack! Did you by chance have a disassembly video?

  9. fzm_aktay stunt says:

    Добрый день можете ли вы переводить видио на русский ME RUSSIAN

  10. jkdbjjconnection says:

    Ayyyyy it’s John

  11. Jamal Jones says:

    What size hole you put in the plate?

  12. MrTechKid says:

    Wow thanks alot for this video! I have a 2017 raptor 700 I've been trying to get the new crankshaft into and my trans fell apart on me in the process and didn't know how to reassemble. This video helped alot for me. Thank you.

  13. Rafael Correa says:

    You should do a Suzuki ltr 450 engine rebuild !!!

  14. Dan Hallinan says:

    Great work

  15. Paul Bykov says:

    You should do a video like this on a Yamaha raptor 660r
    I’m having difficulties with the reverse gear

  16. Ty Bard says:

    I have a question I have a TRX650 Honda Rincon and my dad and I just finished up putting it back together had to have a whole lot of repairs but anyways we cleaned the carburetor and got it back in it and everything else but now when we start up we can push on gas and it’ll go and everything but as soon as you lift off the gas it completely just shuts off do you have any clue what could be wrong with it

  17. Scott Puopolo says:

    I'm working on a 2006 700R and it has clips on the shift fork shafts on either side of each fork. This makes this assembly ridiculous because you cannot build it as shown here. Has anyone removed the clips on the shift fork shafts on a 2006 with no issues?

  18. Pomarańcza XD says:

    nice, detailed video

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *