Yamaha YZF R6 Engine Teardown | Partzilla.com
Yamaha YZF R6 Engine Teardown | Partzilla.com


Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com,
and look what we have here: it’s a 2008 Yamaha R6 motor. Where’s the rest of the machine? Well, it really doesn’t exist because we actually
bought this used and I’m going to go through the process of completely pulling it apart. Now what’s that going to involve? Well, pulling the head off, checking the cylinders,
and actually splitting the crankcase, and then putting it all back together replacing
any parts that may be worn out or damaged. Because honestly, we know nothing about this
engine. So that’s why we’re going to pull it down. So if you’re ready, I’ll go grab my toolbox
and we’ll get started. Alright guys, before we get started a few
things we need to go over. This is actually going to be a skill level
three, so you need to bring your A-game. This is going to be pretty intense. It’s not just tearing apart the motor. You need to do it in an organized fashion. You need to label everything, need to put
it in ziplock bags, because when it comes time to put it back together, that’s when
it’s really going to pay off. So, what tools are you going to need to pull
this off? Not really that intense, Yamaha keeps it down
to a minimum. As far as sockets you just need to make sure
you’ve got a basic range from eight up to about 19. Except for this guy: it’s a 36mm, so you’re
going to have to go pick up one of those. Other than that, you need to have a few Allens. A 5, a 6, and an 8. Other than that just an oil filter wrench
and most importantly you want to make sure you have a T30, because there’s a couple of
bolts on the output shaft of the transmission. They’re not Allens, they’re going to be this
little star configuration– it’s called a Torx, so you want to make sure you have one
of those. Other than that just a decent ratchet, a few
different extensions. A pick tool, a magnet comes in handy, a 10mm
wrench, and you’re also going to need a mark-sol. Other than that a couple of pairs of pliers,
what I call a soft-blow hammer, and then just a flat-blade screwdriver. And like I said, plenty of zip-loc bags to
keep all of this stuff organized. One other tool that I do want to mention is
all the diagrams that we have available at partzilla.com. They basically give you a layout of what you’re
trying to accomplish. Shows how it goes together, and that’ll make
it a lot easier to take it apart and then put it back together later. So, check those out as we go along. It’ll make a lot more sense to you. So if you’re ready, let’s get started. Alright guys, I don’t know if this thing was
shipped with oil in it or not. It’s not supposed to be but let’s go ahead
and pop the drain plug and see if there’s anything left in there. Plus, if it does have any oil in there, I
want to look at the condition of it when it comes out. That ought to give me an indication as to
whether or not there is a problem. Alright, well it looks like the shipping company
did what they were supposed to do, so there’s no oil in here, which is a good thing. So, we can go ahead and proceed forward. Alright, step one, let’s go ahead and get
this valve cover off, then we’re going to pull this cover right here and that actually
has the timing marks where we can bring the motor around to top dead center. And as I’ve said probably a hundred times,
I love using these little impact drivers to pull things apart, but do not use them to
put things back together. you will be sorry if you do. It does make quick work of sections like this. The other thing we’re going to need to go
ahead and do is, there are going to be a whole lot of nuts and bolts involved on this teardown. So, it all seems real simple right now, but
I guarantee you when you’ve got everything spread all over God’s creation, you’re not
going to remember where it all goes. So, we need to go ahead and get some of our
ziploc bags and start tagging each section that we pull apart– starting with the valve
cover. Just kinda make a mental note where each one
of these little brackets are. If not you’ll have to come back and re-watch
the video to see where they went. It’s actually called the pickup rotor cover. There she comes. And there’s your p[pickup right there. Alright we’re getting ready to bring her around
to top dead center, but the spark plugs are still in it, so let’s go ahead and get those
pulled that way it’ll be much easier to turn it over. Looks like this one was burning pretty clean. all those look good, nice and even. Alright, we’re going to bring it around to
top dead center and there’s two things that we’re going to look for. One, this mark right here is going to line
up with where the crankcase meets together. You can’t really see it but I can, that little
line is right there. The other thing that’s going to signify it
being at top dead center on the compression stroke is that the camshaft lobes are going
to be facing up. So, let’s bring that around turning it clockwise. Alright with that set to top dead center,
let’s go ahead and start getting those cams out. And that begins by getting the tensioner off. Now we can go ahead and take off the caps. If you’ll notice, they’ve got each one of
them already labeled for you either on the intake or the exhaust side. What we want to do is kinda bring it off in
a sequence, kinda keeping them level because we don’t want to create too much of a bind
and potentially break one of the camshafts because these things are extremely hard but
that also makes them very brittle. So we need to be careful of that. So this section out toward the end where it’s
just a sink point, we can go ahead and take those all the way off because there’s no pressure
on either side of that particular bearing surface. And they also if you look carefully have little
arrows that face toward the gear side so it makes it more difficult to actually end up
doing it backwards or something like that. So kudos for Yamaha for those points. Alright, initial impressions, this motor looks
to be in pretty good shape so far, and all the cam surfaces: the lobes, and then the
bearing surfaces if you want to call them that all look really clean. So when they said this was about an 8,000
mile engine, I believe it, but we’re still going to go all the way through it. Alright, when you’re removing the head bolts,
of course there’s a certain sequence that you need to go through and we want to do this
a half-a-turn at a time until they get loose, and I’ve got them marked just on the top of
the head. It’s the same for the tightening. What we’re going to do is half-a-turn on each
one. Before we lift the head off I’m going to go
ahead and lake out the chain guides. Not too bad. That actually looks really, really good. On two and three you can still see a little
of the crosshatch and the hone in the bore. Alright, well let’s go take a look at the
head. What I’d looked at earlier were the conditions
of the valves– or at least the stems. I mean we’re going to break the head all the
way down, it’s like I said we’re going to take it to a place called Star Racing, where
they’re going to do a multi-angle valve job as well as massage the ports just a little
bit. Alright, we are actually going to have a bunch
of head work done on this like I said, but I still would like to have things go back
in the same position they were in when they were taken out. So these tappets or buckets, they will be
reused so I want to go ahead and number those so I can at least get them back in the same
position. Are my shims going to change? Well, yeah. The chances are all of them are going to have
to be redone. But I still want the bucket carriers or the
shim carriers to end up in the same bore that they came out of so I’m going to go ahead
and number those. And since they are pretty much just loose
in there now, let’s go ahead and take them out. See the actual shim itself is still in the
bucket. Alright, let’s go ahead and get the clutch
cover off and take the clutch apart itself. Need to get that dipstick out of the way because
it catches on that bottom edge. Alright, there we go. AS you’re removing these, you kind of want
to make it cris-crossed pattern: loosen them up just a little at a time. Alright, that’s got most of the pressure off. So we’ll go ahead and take them all out. Alright guys when you’re pulling these apart,
at the very bottom there’s an oval-shaped washer. So you want to make sure you don’t lose any
of those because I actually dropped one while I was doing this. While we’re on this side let’s go ahead and
pull the clutch pack out. Alright, let’s get the main bolt off of that
clutch basket. Got our holder in place. Alright, we’ve got the clutch pack out of
it, but to actually get the basket out we need to get the chain off, which is actually
down at the oil pump. So, the water pump needs to come off, then
I need to put I guess you’d call it the oil pan– I need to get it removed, then we can
remove the chain and this entire section can come off. Once you get those two main bolts on the front
of the pump housing, then you’ve got a couple of hose clamps left around the front of the
engine and the whole assembly will come right off. As you’re doing this, they hid one right down
in there. So, don’t forget that one. The oil pan usually tells the tale. You can drain the oil but that doesn’t get
you to everything. The oil pan, if it’s got a bunch of sludge
in it, it’ll tell you that it hasn’t been maintained very well at all. This one, it really doesn’t get much better
than this. I mean that is pretty much perfect. There’s no sludge anywhere, so this engine
was in really good shape. Making me feel good the further we go. With our oil pan off, we can go ahead and
get to the oil pump itself. Get this oil tube out. Get these– it looks like three 10mm bolts
that hold the oil pump in as well as this little pickup tube. Now with the dowels out, we can shift it over,
tilt it over a little bit, and then kick the chain off. And then out comes your pump. Alright, before you can get the clutch basket
to release, you have to rotate the crank to where it clears that counterbalance and the
connector rod. Once you’ve done that, then she can lift out.
and there’s our oil pump chain. Go ahead and lift our these roller bearings,
and these different washers. Make sure you keep them all together because
it’s going to be very important that they go back in the right order. You got that small one, flat, this, and then
the roller bearing. Alright, let’s go ahead and get the starter
off. That starter has just a couple of 8mms on
it. Alright, now lets’ bring it up and get the
stator off. Let’s get this cracked cover off, which we’re
not going to reuse. Several 5mms all the way around. Careful, don’t let the magnets pinch your
fingers here. There she is. Let’s go ahead and get this intermediate gear
out. Alright we’re removing what they call the
oil cooler. A little inside tip here: if you’re rebuilding
a clutch that had completely failed– in other words all the fiber had come off the disk
or been burned off the plates themselves, you want to open this up and flush it out. Because basically there’s a bunch of little
passages in here and if they get gummed up, it’s going to starve the engine for oil. I’ve seen it happen. A guy replaced his clutch, put it back together,
didn’t clean this out, and it fried the engine so, just a little inside knowledge there. Alright, let’s go ahead and get the pickup
coil here. But we’ll also get the timing chain out of
the way. Rotate it up, put a support through here,
disconnect this lower bracket for the engine and then we’re going to pull out all these
bolts a quarter turn at a time and we’re going to split the cases. As you will see on this diagram, there are
a bunch of bolts we have to take out a quarter-turn at a time. So, if you would reference this diagram and
follow me around as we get these things loosened up. Number one is right there, so let’s go. Alright, they’re all basically loose now,
so it’s time to go ahead and zip them out. There she is. Alright, initial inspection all the gears
look great. I don’t see any teeth missing, anything like
that or irregular wear. All of it looks really good. the bearing surfaces, at least on the mains
looks good. So let’s get one of those pistons out and
take a look at it. Alright a couple of 10mms to get this end
cap off. About a quarter-turn each. Alright, a little bit of wear, nothing substantial. all the surfaces look good, and the pistons
are actually in fantastic shape. But, I want to let ya’ll in on a little secret:
these are easily reusable. I’m not going to reuse them. It seems the guys over at Wiseco heard about
our little project, and they decided they wanted to get involved. So they are sending us one of their 636 kits. So what are we going to do? We’re going to tear this down all the way,
actually send off the block, have it bored, then we have to have it re-plated and then
we’re going to put it all back together. When you’re pulling these out, you might want
to take note that I had numbers on this side of the connecting rod. That’ll give you a reference point back towards
the transmission as to which way they go. Alright guys, as I’m taking this apart, I’m
actually going to number each one of the bearings. I plan on using or reusing these bearings. The cylinders are actually in fantastic shape. You can still see the crosshatch, but that’s
not going to matter now, is it? Alright, let’s get that shift shaft out of
there. It starts by pulling off this circlip. Rotate it up so ya’ll can see what I’m doing
a little bit. That’s about as far as I can go. Alright, just want to release this spring,
and all of that comes out together. There’s also a washer on this side, so make
sure you keep up with it. Alright, it looks like we’ve got a couple
of plates that are holding our shift drum cassette and then our main gears and that’ll
just about be it. Alright careful, there’s a spring here on
the backside of this plate. So go ahead and unbolt that main shaft. This one is a T30. Alright, to remove this what they call main
axle, you need to get a couple of 6mm bolts. and they actually screw in here and here and
act as a puller. Just keep going back and forth evenly. Now the bolts you’re doing this with, make
sure they’re not used anywhere on the engine itself because it’s kind of destroying the
threads at the very end. There we go. So these were just a couple I had laying around. Well alright guys, there you have it. One 2008 Yamaha R6 torn all the way down to
the crankshaft. So, what’s next? Well, like I said we’re going to send off
the head to Star Racing and get it modified. We’re going to send off the block, get it
bored and get it ready for those Wiseco pistons that are going to punch it up to a 636. It’s going to be nice. Well listen, if you need to reference any
of the diagrams why don’t you find us online and take a look at those, kind of get an idea–
a visual idea of how all this stuff comes apart and more importantly how it’s all going
to go back together. Speaking of that, if you want to watch me
put this back together, why don’t you follow us over to the next video and until then,
we just want to say thanks for watching.

45 thoughts on “Yamaha YZF R6 Engine Teardown | Partzilla.com”

  1. Trung D. says:

    thanks for making this video! quick question. what are you using to hold up and rotate the engine?

  2. tommy hawk says:

    Part 2 is private

  3. riv1950 says:

    Great video, thank you

  4. TheNoobComment says:

    thanks for the video

  5. Video Outtakes says:

    I would have checked and written down all the valve tolerances, and done a cylinder head valve Test to make sure all were watertight, using white spirit…….shouldn't be an issue as almost a new engine but I just like to make sure…..

  6. Kevin Adheen says:

    i want an engine like this built ?

  7. Ryan Brumund says:

    can I follow these videos for a 2006 r6? I really want to know…

  8. Khairul KRR03 says:

    How do you take out the oil spray nozzle?

  9. Darius Grant says:

    Great vid. What kind of engine stand is that and does it first a r1 engine on it?

  10. RoadRunner77 says:

    How to remove the waterpump on this Type? I tried, but the Pump isnt coming out. To much fear to brake something.

  11. 1111stunna1111 says:

    Very nice!

  12. renan silva says:

    ótimo vídeo! obrigado, cara!

  13. don1765 says:

    Thank you for those amazing videos sir. God bles

  14. Eric Herrero says:

    What a savage John is not even phased in the least bit when facing engine rebuild. Thanks for step by step guide. I used this video to find out where all the parts went after I failed to ziplock everything. XD

  15. Spanner Monkey says:

    Fantastic vid but where did you get those glasses you had on ???

  16. I REALLY AM BIGGIE SMALLS IN A TRAIN!! HELP!!! says:

    You did take the head nuts off from the outside in right? The last but being the center? Disassembly is the reverse of install.. just wondering.

  17. Brandon Walker says:

    When replacing the output shaft do I have to take out of these parts or just the head?

  18. The Professor says:

    nice video..

  19. ME262MKI says:

    By default how many gaskets has the cylinder head?

  20. ZeroBoostBuick says:

    Really kool series. Brings back memories of splitting cases to fix 2nd gear on a 750 Genesis motor (5-valves per cyl.) and on a XJ750 air cooled. Fun times !!!

  21. Fortnite orDie says:

    Such a great video

  22. Imran Khan says:

    Very informative video. Thanks for contributing ur valuable time. Learned alot from this video and helped me understand my engine better.

  23. Brandon Walker says:

    Where do I get a stand like that?

  24. Faizu Salim says:

    Thank you for a very good video. Cheers!

  25. Projet des six jours says:

    Hi partzilla: wow very clean and helpful video! I'm planning to fix the second gear (slips on high demand) on my 2006 fjr, do you recommend accessing the gearbox from the top or from the bottom of the engine? Thanks

  26. Sully says:

    Clean the oil cooler if you burn out the clutch, first time ive heard that but it makes so much sense. 636 bore on an 03 engine. I wish you would make a video on swapping out that engine in to a first gen 5eb. I was thinking about boring my 5eb, do you have any recommendations on who i should use?

  27. Anthony Hicks says:

    John how much will it cost to rebuild R6 engine

  28. Christian Eriksson says:

    Really awesome video series!
    I am wondering if the engine is more or less the same as my 2007 FZ6N? It has started to white smoke and I'm going to tear it down this winter. I just drained the coolant and it looks brown and almost oily? Is that a sort of coolant or could it be oil in the coolant? Its not milky at all.

    Thanks again for these videos!

  29. abu lambat says:

    Can I use this for my 2003 Yamaha r6?

  30. Zanthony robin says:

    Could you make a 09-14 R1 rebuild?

  31. Joaco Rodriguez says:

    No need to release the oil pump chain to remove the clutch basket. As you can see the chain is behind.

  32. Joaco Rodriguez says:

    THANKS A LOT for this very informative video!!!!

  33. George Aggelis says:

    You are a pure professional,you know that?

  34. Alejandro Grisales says:

    Gracias ingeniero….saludos desde colombia. Como siempre respeto y admiracion …..ojala que este material tuviera traduccion en español ….gracias

  35. Alejandro Grisales says:

    Muchas gracias ingeniero

  36. Brice Philippe says:

    Wish you could rebuilt my engine

  37. jarpen3 says:

    Nice job, like.

  38. akaleleco says:

    What kind of modification was made on the part of the pistons for the new ones of the brand wiseco? increased the gap?

  39. chris geldenhuys says:

    Good day . I just want to find out . I own a fz6 yamaha fazer 600 2006 model . Would the fazer have similar engine to the one you stripped here

  40. Christian Conner says:

    Is a 2004 and 2008 the same?? I have a 2004 Yamaha R6

  41. Motoholic says:

    Outstanding professional video. Thanks so much for taking the time to teach us about this engine. I will make sure to give ya'll my business.

  42. RoadRunner77 says:

    Hello, why There is a H on the rod?

  43. Danny B B says:

    Hey couple questions, do you have to take the engine out for this? Also is this similar process to an 2007 r1?

  44. ross podvin says:

    how do you get the dowels out of the oil pump I can't get them out and don't want to damage them

  45. Jona_ej2 says:

    Awesome job new sub here from Spain

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